I am wanting to build a 24x30 pole barn garage. (Runnign out of room). If I use a 5/12 pitch roof, what is the length of the other side? (I am trying to determine the survae area of the roof to see if roofing metal or shingles would be cheaper. I can get metal for 3 dollars a foot.
Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?
Thanks!
stryped fired this volley in news:80401bcf-e992- snipped-for-privacy@m44g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
5-in-12 is 13 feet on the slope. Add about 12" either end for overhang, if you want it, and rake-end eaves of 12".So, your 24x30 barn is really 32' long, and the slopes are 14'. With standard 5-vee tin (24" wide), that's 32 14' sheets. For standing-rib galvalume (36" wide), it's 22 sheets, and the rake-end eaves need to be
18" instead of 12" to make it all work out without cutting.sqrt(rise^2 + run^2) = sqrt(5^2+12^2) = sqrt(25+144) = sqrt(169) = 13
Pythagorean Theorem.
However, any framing square has the math "built in", as it were. Just strike a line from 5" on one leg to 12" on the other (or 10 and 24), and measure the line you made. (13 or 26).
LLoyd
stryped fired this volley in news:80401bcf-e992- snipped-for-privacy@m44g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
Forgot to answer that part:
You can, but you need collar ties between the rim beams to hold the ridge up (think "ceiling rafters"). Remember that a ridge board doesn't hold _anything_ up unless it's on center-posts, it is _held_up_ by the rafters, which, if allowed to spread at the walls, will sag. Ridge boards are just convenient nailing surfaces for the rafter tops, and a way to longitudinally brace the rafters at the same time.
For that small a job, I'd be tempted to make up my own trusses with gusset-glue-n-nail. They're not code anywhere anymore, but simple to make, and plenty strong enough for a simple pole barn.
By the time you get a ridge board and all those collar ties in place, you'd have spent more than for trusses.
LLoyd
How would i go about making my own trusses like that?
stryped fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@25g2000hsx.googlegroups.com:
If you're going to have a slab in the barn, it's extra-easy. You just build a jig on the floor, and assemble them one-at-a-time; then stack 'em up outside until you get them all built.
Standard truss designs for that short a span are all over the web. A quick search will turn up several. If that doesn't satisfy, get a book, or buy ONE truss from a truss yard that has some leftovers, and copy it.
Or just buy unclaimed trusses of WHATEVER length they happen to have lying around, and re-plan your barn size accordingly. That's a popular option with pole barn builders, and leftovers can usually be had cheaply.
LLoyd
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Unfortunately, I dont have the money for a slab right now, I have to stick with gravel.
I am open to changing the dimensions, but I live in a smaller town and dont thing I could find some "unused" trusses.
Trusses typically have been too cheap to build your own, on a building that size. I'd price them before you commit to making your own.
Be sure to factor in the delivery costs if they have to be trucked in.
If they have to be trucked in from more than 50 miles away, the delivery fee may get a bit stiff.
you don't say where in the world you are, but you might look on your craigslist. here's one from today near me
I live near Nashville Tennessee
I built one about 30 years ago. Built my own trusses just as Lloyd said. Used SYP (Southern Yellow Pine) on 2 ft centers used that Onduline stuff for the sides and roof. Had to replace it a few years ago. this time used V grove steel. Posts are 4 x 6 on 10 ft ctrs. Square is a pair of 2 x 10. Forget what the spacing of the purlins is and its in PA while I'm in NM so cant go out and look. :-) ...lew...
I set up a place in an old "wagon sheed" with a flat level spot at each place where a splice plate was to go and pre-cut all the 1/2 " plywood peices (one on each side of the joints) Nailed and glued the joints as I made them. Am pretty sure it was a W truss. (probably lots of refrences to truss design on the web) I did use one foot overhang on the truss ends but none on the gable ends.
...lew...
Never use 2x4 for anything in a rafter. They are to light to hold the load.
2x6 is the smallest I would consider. 2x12 is more like the wood for that size.Martin
Mart> I am wanting to build a 24x30 pole barn garage. (Runnign out of room).
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Martin, that is really quite a small span for trusses. It would be extremely unusual to see anything other than 2x4s.
"Martin H. Eastburn" fired this volley in news:1217467922 snipped-for-privacy@isp.n:
For flying rafters on that small a span, I'd recommend 2x6, but for hand- built trusses, 2x4 lumber is much more than adequate.
Although I don't approve, code permits mobile home trusses to be 2x2 up to 14' span. That at least gives you an idea of the strength of a "W" truss design relative to the lumber size.
LLoyd
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What exactly is Onduline and is it cheaper to use than metal?
I was (not sure it even exists any lomger) a sheet material with ripple corrogations like the old style galvanize made out of a heavy "tar like" stuff with some sort of fibre reinforcing and a color coat on the one side. At the time is was being touted as longer lived and more resistant to damage than the other products. It wasent realy too bad, easier to handle, cut, and nail but it did deterioate over the 20 years or so it was on. I wouldn't recomend it, if it's still available. ...lew...
Martin
Mart> Martin, that is really quite a small span for trusses. It would
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I have six little houses that are built this way with about a 10 foot stretch between the ridge and the wall.
They sag so much that I made steel trusses to jack they back to being flat.
I am for building your own trusses, you will have a much stronger roof that way.
I wonder what grade of 2 x 4s he used? If they were the typical "whitewood" from the "home supply" places I'm not too supprised. Trusses should be made from SYP (southern yellow pine) graded for the application. My pole barn (as mentioned before) is 24 x
40 an is still very much in excelent condx. after about 30 yrs. ...lew...PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.