Milling Tool Steel

I put a collet holder chuck in the noname mill drill a while back and
it works great. A lot faster and easier than constantly tightening
and loosening the drawbar whenever I change anything. Its got a nice
collet closer wrench and a couple flats on the body that I can throw a
regualr wrench on to tighten and loosen quickly and easily. I like it
so much I bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good,
but there are no flats on the body for a wrench. That means I still
have to flip the top and hold the pulley when tightening up a collet.
Its tight enough for the small stuff, but when I was doing some heavy
(for me) face milling with a 1" end mill I found that it seemed to
walk up in the collet. Holding the pulley I really have no way to
judge how tight I am making the collet, so I figured I'ld mill a
couple flats body of the collet chuck so I can use a wrench like the
one in the smaller mill drill. (never had a mill move in that one)
Any suggestions?
I mean besides going back to using the straight R8 collets. Obviously
I'll have to use them to mill my flats, but then... For the most part
the convenience of using the collet chuck is a HUGE time saver.
Reply to
Bob La Londe
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That part doesn't need to be hardened to a fair-thee-well, so it may not be "tool steel" per se. Can you file it? If so it's not that hard and, you should be able to mill it with HSS. If a file skates, or if you don't have a rigid enough machine to make it work, can you get at it with a bench grinder? Can you disassemble the thing and _then_ get at it with a bench grinder (this would relieve any anxiety about getting grit into the works).
You don't really need flats -- it may be easier to get a nice hard drill bit and make a few holes, then make a matching wrench (I don't know what you call it, but it would be one with a semicircular gullet and a reasonably hard pin that matches the diameter of the hole).
Reply to
Tim Wescott
I think that fits the def. of "spanner" wrench.
bill
Reply to
Bill Martin
Were they accidentally left off, or does it have pin wrench holes? Do you have a catalog picture?
I'd rough it to within about 0.005" with an angle grinder and then surface-grind the flats parallel.
A rubber strap wrench might have enough grip.
jsw
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
Well a file just barely cut it, but it did. HSS was however not up to the job. I cut it with a 1/4 solid carbide end mill. Ok two of them. When I got a little impatient and tried to hurry it broke the cutting edges right off. I also noticed when it was "WET" with oil it cut, but when it looked even a little dry I could hear it impacting. Had to hit it with a few drops of oil every 1/8" or so.
Reply to
Bob La Londe
I'd coolant flood and grind the flats. A surface grinder would do it nicely. You don't want to heat the part or it might fracture or loose strength.
Martin
Reply to
Martin Eastburn
Oh! Its so nice to be able to put a wrench on it, and tighten it up right.
I have to say I have a lot more respect for you old farts who stood there for hours turning the handles on a mill so slow. I can also appreciate that comments about "feeling" when its right. When it felt right it I could just watch the chips pile up.
Reply to
Bob La Londe
Bill Martin Inscribed thus:
Try "Pin Wrench"
Reply to
Baron
No-NO-NO! The proper name is "Doohickey Wrench With A Tit On The End"
Reply to
Tom Gardner
Tom Gardner Inscribed thus:
Ah right ! :-)
Reply to
Baron

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