BQ340 fired this volley in news:52004b7b$0$49327
The set consists of several different thicknesses. Are you telling us
that the spring in your device is only 0.005" thick, yet FAR stronger
than a steel feeler gauge of the same 0.005" thick?
Mike, how thick is the original spring? What the guys are saying is
you need the same thickness feeler guage. Half as thick is 1/8 as
"stiff", so .005" is 1/8 as strong as .010 - and i suspect your
spring as closer to .020 or 025"
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Blue spring stock (not shim stock, which I have not tried, but
the coils of spring stock) will bend as long as you don't want too small
a bend radius.
Tempering it would make it softer. You would need to harden it
(and how hard you can get it is a function of the alloy). And to treat
something like that (you have to get it up to at least red hot) you
would be exposing it to serious oxidation -- unless you have an oven
which you can pump argon into before getting it hot. Then it has to
come out quickly and go into the quench before it cools any. (Probably
better to have a stack of them together, so the center ones at least
would not cool too much before the quench.) And if you want it that
hard, quench in brine (very strong solution of salt in water), which
will probably get it as hard as you can manage for whatever alloy you
have. (This would work with your clock spring as well.)
If you heat it in air, the oxygen will burn out the carbon in
To find your target hardness, you will want to do a Rockwell
hardness measurement -- with the "superficial" scale, because the spring
is not thick enough to be done with the Rockwell C scale -- that needs
more depth under the surface.
Once you know the hardness of the originals, you can then try
the heat and quench with new spring stock and see what that does
straight out of the quench. If it is too hard, then you get into
tempering (heat to a given temperature for a given time to reduce the
hardness a known amount.
Shit...call around to your local machine shops and find one with a
good hardness tester and have the thing tested. Once you find out how
freaking hard the survivor actually is...make the new ones just as
freaking hard. Its not rocket science for cripes sake.
Bring em a dozen donuts and it wont cost you anything other than the
Gunner Asch fired this volley in
yeah... I get the feeling this guy is going 'tangent' on us. You'd have
figured he'd have 'gotten it' by now, but it sounds like we're all
walking around in a circle...
Oooops! Here comes the FIRST question, again!
Of course it will distort - that's how it works - by flexing. Unless by
"distort" do you mean "yield", with a permanent distortion. If so, I
don't think so - feeler guages are pretty hard & the video doesn't show
that much deflection in the springs. Try bending a feeler guage by hand
- about the same radius as the Omnigraph spring while running. Does it
yield? If not, keep trying smaller radii until it does yield. I'll bet
that the radius that it does yield at is much smaller than will ever
happen in the Omnigraph. In which case, you're set to go.
Yes, it kinks permanently, I am bad with my terminology!
The problem seems to be that it doesn't bend evenly along it's length in
use, the 3 attaching screws have square plates under the heads to clamp
the spring & weights -they must focus the force and leave a slight
crease in the shim stock after a couple test runs. It almost works but
I'm not happy with the results.
I am trying to keep this original as possible, not just hack it up with
any old spring that will "work".
BQ340 fired this volley in news:52016b19$0$9076
So... you use a spring of equal hardness to the original, and equal
thickness, and equal width.
Just because the feeler gauge stock isn't hard enough is not a
limitation. Harden and temper it.
If he hasn't done that before, trying to get it right with such a thin
piece is not likely to be successful.
Quenching a thin blade evenly isn't usually accomlished by dunking it
in water or oil. You'll preferentially quench one side, resulting in a
weak and, probably, a curved piece. Swishing it around does NOT
accomplish it, if we're talking about something thinner than 0.030" or
I have a nozzle made as a coil of bendable copper tubing, with many
spray holes pointing inward, that screws to my laundry-tub faucet. I
made that after a lot of wrecked pieces.
Ed Huntress fired this volley in
Not if you PLUNGE it vertically. Besides, he can layer material to
equalize the quenching.
C'mon... this isn't rocket science, it's craftsmanship. Artisans have
been doing it successfully by hand for three centuries.
Good luck. I haven't been successful doing that, except once or twice
by pure luck, and I've heard from experienced heat-treating people,
and knife people, who also say not to do it.
Maybe your eye/hand coordination is a lot better than mine d8-)
This is a very thin blade. They're very hard to quench right. My
experience is mostly with hacksaw bladers, carbon steel, which I use
for a lot of things.