One blade TIGged

try welding that broken bandsaw blade . Milled a half inch wide by .023" deep slot down the length of a piece of aluminum ingot (from melted
scrap) followed by a quarter inch slot along one edge , .050" deep , for tooth clearance . Added a .050 deep cross slot in the middle for clearance under the blade so shield gas could get down there . I clamped the blade with the ends just touching using a couple of short bar clamps - which will be replaced with a screw and washer - and welded it at about 12 amps using some 1/16" ER312 . Tested it on a piece of half inch steel 2" wide cutting thru the half inch dimension . Left it cutting for a quick run into the house and when I came back the blade had stalled . I checked , I hadn't ground the blade all the way back to original thickness and it was hanging in the cut . Couple of minutes with the Dremel and we be jammin' now . I'm not planning on making my own bands , but it sure is handy to be able to repair one if needed - I did melt a couple of teeth , so this band will not be used for stock under 1/4" .
Snag Yes , I'm old and crochety - and armed . Get outta my woods !
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On 3/5/2019 11:30 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:


. I'm not sure if it's because of my filler selection or because I didn't anneal it afterward . But hey , I still got the block and somewhere around here is a coil of silver solder . So not a totally wasted morning anyway .
--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
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On Tuesday, March 5, 2019 at 12:52:51 PM UTC-5, Terry Coombs wrote:

eld

312 is good for most anything, just not cheap. So I think it was not bein g annealed
Dan.
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On Tue, 05 Mar 2019 11:53:10 -0600, Terry Coombs wrote:


Yes, you HAVE to anneal it, that is the SECRET! You want to get it up to a very dull red and then keep it there for a few seconds and let it cool slowly. This is real easy to do on a real blade welder, they have a switch or something that cuts the weld current down to a small fraction, and you just pulse the button to heat it and hold it for a while, then make it tail off with fewer and shorter pulses.
I guess you can easily do this with a Propane torch, too.
Jon
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"Terry Coombs" wrote in message

It knew you needed an excuse to cut out that little section with the melted teeth and practice another weld :-).
--
Regards,
Carl Ijames
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On Tue, 5 Mar 2019 15:16:04 -0500

I'm no TIG expert but I think you could back off on the pedal as you finish welding and then just play along the weld edges. Enough to keep it red without actually melting the blade. Not sure if your machine will go that low but should be easy to try :)
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
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On Mar 6, 2019, Gunner Asch wrote

metal on an anvil, to "pack" the metal. Probably toughening by forging, which reduces the average grain size, busting up the large grains from annealing.
Joe Gwinn
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On Wed, 06 Mar 2019 21:23:47 -0500, Joseph Gwinn


The blade welds I have done just required annealing. None of my welds broke. The first blade I did was in such poor shape that it kept breaking in other spots. I have done a couple other blades though I would rather buy blades already made. When I have a blade that breaks it has been because the blade was wearing out. I weld them pretty much out of cheapness, because I didn't order new blades in time. Eric
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On 3/7/2019 11:18 AM, snipped-for-privacy@whidbey.com wrote:


(probably by this time) out in my mailbox . If I like it I'll order another or two .
--
Snag
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