OT: Marlin Spike

Is there a way to put a marlin spike loop mid span in a section of twisted rope without tying a knot in it?

Back in the winter of 1980/81 I took a small craft and seamanship course from the USCGA (D-9) with my Uncle Paul. I learned how to back splice, straight splice, and how to loop splice the ends of a rope, but I'd like to make a tow harness for a boat that centers the load on both rear tie down rings. Ideally with a float before the loop, and the splice extending further than the length of the float. All I've ever used is loop splices in the real world, but I could figure out the others quick enough if I had to.

The only thing I can think if is to make two loops through the float with two different pieces of rope.

I'd like to be able to quickly clip each end on to one of the tie down rings on a small (relatively) craft and toss the float straight off the back for a tow line to clip onto. This is not intended for skiing. Its intended for towing a disable watercraft. In some cases one much heavier than the tow craft.

For water skiing the ideal setup is to come off a pole well above the deck with a single line on a mount that can swing easily. I have one, although I have never used it. Never was able to ski more than a couple hundred yards without turning myself into a torpedo.

Untwisting and retwisting a long section of rope really is not an answer. I want to do this with nylon rope and it doesn't tend to retwist very well. The only reason a loop splice works with it is because tensions clamps the strands to each other after its woven. Well, and I also lightly melt the ends so they stick in place.

The only other thing I can think if is lashing (whipping?) with a light cord instead of splicing. I'm not sure I am a fan.

Yeah I know how silly that all sounds.

Inline splicing of one line into the midspan of the other works well in nylon 3-strand laid rope, and the better the rope quality the better and easier splicing works.

Typically, the splice length must be at least six weaves long, allowing all the stresses and strains to level out.

Knots tend to weaken the lines.

Look in the Ashley Book of Knots for the possibilities.

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No way will lashing be strong enough or enduring.

Joe

Inline splicing of one line into the midspan of the other works well in nylon 3-strand laid rope, and the better the rope quality the better and easier splicing works.

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That should be better than the grommet (ring) I suggested, because the splice will be in line with the pull. If the added piece is shorter the continuous main rope will bear all of a centered load.

I am familiar with a dropper loop. In days past I often used it to attached a hook leader to a mainline with a pass through loop. I'm not an expert on all common fishing knots, but I know a fair number of them. As you note the leads are psuhed away from each other with the style of the knot, but I would still consider it except as Joe notes in his reply knots do tend to weaken line. Yes I have watched every single episode or Berkley's Knot Wars series where they compare the strength of various knots in the three most common types of fishing line, and saw the claim that some knots were "more than" 100% of line strength. Those are all freshly tied knots cinched down and stressed to breaking. I assure you the knot affects line strength over time.

A figure 8 knot or even a surgeons loop has an affect on line strength. In a pinch they are options as is simply tying the rope to the tow point and losing a few inches with a knife when you are done.

I have a couple goals, but one of them is to be obvious in use to somebody who is not as familiar with it. I'd like to make one and give it to an air boat operator who pulled me off a sand bar last year, and to throw one in each of the boats I use regularly myself as a permanents single purpose bridle. It will equalize towing, and also (with the float) reduce the likelihood of prop fouling when working with a less skilled boater.

I would like to see that. I tend to tie off mostly to cleats. You just stack a couple opposing half hitches for a short term tie off. Not the knot persay, but the cross arm drop.

I had not actually thought of using a second piece of rope to form a loop in the main line. I could even use that method to increase the strength of the loop itself so if it did break it would more likely be one of the lead lines. I could make it a tight loop, or leave a short regular twist for a float. That is a good idea. I had thought of using two main lines for the harness or bridle tied together with "hardware" but didn't really care for it.

Enduring no. I have seen stuff lashed together and work, but the lashing almost always shows signs of failure if it has been used very many times. Usually it loosens up and starts to separate eventually leading to unwrapping.

I would like to see that. I tend to tie off mostly to cleats. You just stack a couple opposing half hitches for a short term tie off. Not the knot persay, but the cross arm drop. Bob La Londe

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Uncrossing the arms forms the loops, swapping which hand + loop is on top adds the diagonal that completes the knot. It leaves slack in the mooring line unless adjusted. With practice it can look like magic.