Typical RWAL (rear-wheel anti-lock) systems work by sensing impending rear-wheel lockup, then activating a valve that prevents further hydraulic pressure from reaching the rear wheel cylinders/calipers. In the event that lockup still occurs/is about to occur, a dump valve opens up, bleeding off excess pressure into an accumulator, and preventing rear-wheel lockup. Unfortunately, this also bleeds off front brake pressure as well.
Rear Antilock Braking System rabs
Makes you feel like an idiot to bounce off someones bumper don't it? We ain't 20 anymore so it's time to give more space so the 20 yr olds can cut between you!
On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 03:03:35 GMT, Gunner brought forth from the murky depths:
You must like the vibration in your brake pedal. I prefer the good, safe, clean, flat surface provided by taking a few thou off the rotors, thanks. Of course, I drive a REAL truck, not a mini and I don't need a kidney belt to drive it. (Ah, fond memories of the old 70's Dachshund trucks come to mind.)
(OK, so it's only a F-150. It and I think of it as real.)
---------------------------------------------------- Thesaurus: Ancient reptile with excellent vocabulary
On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 05:33:55 GMT, "Peter Grey" brought forth from the murky depths:
Um, heat-glazed pads can't be deglazed by heating, Peter. Glazing is -caused- by the fast stops.
A bit of 120 grit sandpaper will remove the glaze, though. It doesn't hurt to scuff the rotors with that, either.
I do this to my rear drum brakes annually, too, removing the built-up dust while I'm at it. Once the rain starts, they tend to lock up for the first couple morning stops if the brake dust is left in there.
I got 75k miles on the front pads and only replaced the rear linings then because I wanted a smooth pedal. They were down to about 60% and could have lasted over 100k with the minor annual maintenance I gave them. Drums always get a bit eggy, though, and I prefer a conventional foot massage to the brake pedal type, thankyouverymuch.
---------------------------------------------------- Thesaurus: Ancient reptile with excellent vocabulary
Tom, very interesting, I've never heard this before. Thanks Lane
You got that right!
The idea isn't to break the glaze by getting them hot, it's to break the glaze by using them hard. Then to prevent them from re-glazing, you cool them by driving around so that they get decent air flow. Glazing can occur by getting the pads hot and then letting them sit with no air flowing over them. One can also get warped rotors and trash your fluid from this, but that's another subject.
Glazing isn't caused by fast stops. If it was, race cars would all have glazed pads after half a lap. Glazing is caused by not cooling the pads properly after getting them hot.
I used to teach road racing. Whenever I taught at a marque club school where people drive their own cars on track, we'd remind people to heat cycle their brakes once before depending on them too much.
Peter
Most modern cars (in fact I don't know of any that don't) isolate different parts of the hydraulic system to prevent total brake failure. The Explorer (and I imagine the Ranger) RABS does bleed off pressure but only to the rear wheels. The front brakes work at the same pressure levels regardless of what's happening at the rear end.
Peter
That is nice to know, thanks Peter Lane
My problem is adjusting the parking brake pedal. Ford provides no clevis adj. The cables are connected by a metal clip arrangement. A Ford service writer told me they have Never adjusted a parking brake. I find this hard to believe.
I hate to use the little clamp gizmo that sort of puts a kink in the cable.
Hank
What vibration in the brake peddle?
Gunner The methodology of the left has always been:
Exactly what I was thinking!
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 09:44:30 -0800, "lane" brought forth from the murky depths:
Perhaps it's more pronounced in the 4-cylinder calipers, but warped drums and wavy rotors cause it in most vehicles. Pay attention to your brake pedal (proper spelling) for the next week or so and tell me you don't feel a thing. Just try. Boafayas. ;)
-------------------------------------------------------------------- I sent in my $5, so *
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 12:09:16 GMT, Gunner brought forth from the murky depths:
I didn't think you'd grok "undulation".
P.S: There are no "peddles" in automobiles.
-------------------------------------------------------------------- I sent in my $5, so *
Don't be too hasty, Larry. I've met plenty of grunts that grokked undulation. Not all of them enjoyed it. It goes without saying that none could spell it.
R, Tom Q. USN, Ret.
You're right - warped rotors will cause a pulsing pedal, but if you're just replacing the pads because of wear and the rotor isn't warped, there's no overwhelming need to turn them. They'll be fine. Nine times out of ten (yes, I have changed the front pads on my Explorer that many times!), I just throw pads at it and the brakes are fine.
Hey, some of my cars had peddles. The little red fire engine I had as a kid had two of them. I didn't have much concern about warped rotors, though...
Peter
Peter Grey wrote: (clip) Hey, some of my cars had peddles. The little red fire engine I had as a kid had two of them (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The sales person who sold the little red fire engine was a peddler. You, as the driver, were a pedaler.
Whoops! You're right! And I did know better....
Peter
Thats what a belly dancer does, right?
Sure there are. Stereos, Mexican music tapes and CDs, Chinese calenders, stolen tools. At least here in L.A.
Gunner
The methodology of the left has always been:
I've locked the brakes in the front on my 94, but it's hard to do without having the back come around. My parking brake works
1994 b2300 with 329k milesCharlie
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73 KC2IXE For the Children - RKBA! You can have peace. Or you can have freedom. Don't ever count on having both at once.--Lazarus Long
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