paint marker

Someone makes "paint sticks" for doing what you need done. MSC sells them in white and black. You sorta rub the stick onto the part to be "Painted", then wipe off the excess with a hard cloth. You don't want to use a soft cloth, because its fibers will sink into the indentations and pull the paint out. I don't remember how long the "paint" must dry before you wipe the surface.

Pete Stanaitis

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Cydrome Leader wrote:

I have used the sticks made for tire marking, because that's what i had on hand. Worked fine. Yellow or white.

spaco wrote:

Oh, I forgot to mention, there is no recess, that's why the original silk screened printing wore off.

Probably better to get a stick on tape with numbers.

With the ones that I got from J&L (now MSC), wiping the surplus off immediately works. The important part is to rub all of the hardened paint off the end of the stick to get to fresh paint, before using it to mark anything. A piece of sawn 2x4 works very well for this :-)

Mark Rand RTFM

Hmm, I forgot about stuff like that (dry transfer letters). It would look the best too.

I swear they used to comes with some types of video cassettes, but in black.

Thanks.

Another option -- dry transfer application (burnishing):

I was just going to mention that, but you've got to be really careful with alignment and the small characters are a real challenge on curved surfaces. One reason the old timers used to have a pointer on the knob and the graduations on the panel face. Choice of colors used to be black or white and you needed a fixative spray after getting things applied. Some of the belt and suspenders guys put a plexiglas panel over the completed lettering job. Dry-transfers used to be a staple of the component catalog business, haven't seen any since the last of the ham stores went out of business around here.

There ARE no paint markers with tips as fine as a Sharpie, most I've used have a ball-bearing tip about an 1/8" or so, hardly what you need for laying out fine markings. The alternative is white lacquer, a fine brush and a steady hand. Or turn new knobs, graduate same, stamp markings as desired and fill in with lacquer stick. Brownell's carries various colors of lacquer sticks, should you want to go that route. Basically smear the stuff over the engraving, wait a bit and buff off the excess with a cloth. It's solvent-based, so acetone or mineral spirits will clean things off if you need another go-around.

Stan

Yup, I agree about being careful with alignment and touch up with the white pens. It would be nice if they had computer generated dry- transfer sheets, but I don't think they do. There are computer printer decals too, but I haven't had the chance to use them.

Doesn't someone offer a material that can be ink jet printed, then applied with a pressure sensitive backing?

Yup.

is one example. IIRC, you print in reverse so the film is on the outside. If the knob is domed, the film might not conform well. Also, the printing will have to contrast with the knob. Easier if it isn't black.

Pete Keillor

SNIP

SNIP

Why not "print" one and glue it on. Even simple CAD programs allow drafting it up and printing it to a scale that suits.

Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.

I don't have a way to print white letters.

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But these knobs go all the way to 11

Wire brushing a black plastic knob is very clever!

FWIW, white laser toner would be interesting to have.

Your white paint will adhere better, for sure.

Use "dry transfer" lettering. Comes in white.

Your local graphic art supply store may have single sheets in stock, or do a google search.

Unka' George [George McDuffee]

------------------------------------------- He that will not apply new remedies, must expect new evils: for Time is the greatest innovator: and if Time, of course, alter things to the worse, and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better, what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman. Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).

How about a decal?