Try a can of freezing spray.
Try a can of freezing spray.
You know, if the wheel is scrap anyway, a grinder with a cutoff wheel ought to separate the hub in two without damaging the splines on the shaft.
In addition to the other good advice I would suggest that you make a good threaded protector cap to fit the shaft. If the shaft is hollow it should have a close fitting stem. Make it to protect the shaft and threads while providing a seat for the puller screw and leaving a little room for the wheel to move. Be sure you have a good big puller with a fine thread screw. Most imports won't pull like an OTC or similar. The bar and post type are stronger than the jaw type.
You need a heavy hammer and a good in-line blow on the puller screw.
If necessary, always sacrifice the cheapest and/or easiest to replace part. That would be the steering wheel.
Don Young
Splines? I thoght we were talking a taperes shaft.
Steering wheels are usually on splines shafts, sometimes tapered too.
The Massey 135 shaft is tapered with a woodruff key.
John
As are the vast majority od equipment steering wheels, and over the years a sizeable number of automotive ones as well.
I just got the damn thing off, that was fun. NOT!
There's about 3/4" of splines and then a taper shaft. This is on a 1970 Ford
2000.FWIW, the auto parts stores and the john deere dealer have not heard of kroil. I look for it in McMasterCarr next time I order.
I ordered my gallon of Kroil direct from
Looking around I see both Midway and Brownell's carry Kroil...
I have purchased some Kroil from a auto parts store. But have not seen any in most auto parts stores.
Dan
Look up "Ed's Red" - very close to Kroil in effectiveness - you mix it yourself.
As a locksmith I have pulled lots of steering wheels (Most American cars since 69 have had ignition locks in the steering column.) and they all have has two threaded holes for puller bolts. I suspect that since you are asking the question, the tractor does not have these threaded holes so I think you are on the right track with the collar for under the wheel unless there is room to drill and tap holes.
I have never needed to use any sort of oil on the steering wheels in cars and the only tractor I ever worked on was a Steiger and that had a tilt telescoping wheel just like a Cadillac. My suspicion is however that once you get a solid place to pull from, the wheel should pull off easily even if there is some rust as all you have to do is get the wheel to move up the taper just a bit and you are home free.
What is the reason the wheel needs to come off?
...
I got it off with the pulling collar. Had the puller as tight as the impact wrench would take it, then a pop with a 3# hammer. BINGO. I had soaked it in penetrant for 24 hours.
Electrical system is totally fried. Complete wire harness rebuild is in order. Plus I need to find what caused the wires to literally melt. I suspect insulation fell off someplace under the dash.
Karl
Except that Posi-Lock will not honor the warranty of the screw if you use a impact on it.
Check that the Fusible Links at the battery weren't choppped off and a ring terminal straight to the harness Main Battery wire. Lots of loads that would pop the Fusible Link can easily run that lead up to white hot if they fault.
Same thing with bypassed circuit breakers, etc. I've saeen amazing quantities of Dumbth.
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On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 08:23:01 -0500, the infamous "Karl Townsend" scrawled the following:
Set up a collar beneath it, loosen the holddown nut 1.5 turns, and use an impact chisel with a flat punch on the steering shaft while pulling up on the collar or steering wheel. It'll come off in thirty seconds flat, Karl. I used to do that on old cars all the time. It works like a charm.
Although no longer kosher, a bit of liquid freon on the steering shaft will shrink it enough to help remove the occasional -really- stuck wheel joint.
On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 11:56:59 -0400, the infamous snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca scrawled the following:
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