As long as the type (platinum or titania, almost all are platinum), mechanical dimensions, number of wires, and heater resistance (doesn't apply to 1-wire sensors) are the same, then they're interchangeable.
324K is a long, long life for the sensor, and replacing it may give you 10% better gas mileage.
Your truck should have a self-diagnosis system that can be activated with a jumper wire, and if it's the Ford system instead of the Mazda one, then it should also have an extensive set of built-in tests and the ability to click actuators on and off when you toggle the gas pedal and the ability to store codes when you tap or wiggle devices and cables ("wiggle test" is the oficial name).
A common problem cause with O2 sensors is a crack in the exhaust mainifold upstream of the sensor which then incorrectly tells the computer that the engine is running too lean.
The 2.3L (140-I4) Pinto/Mustang/Ranger/everything else somewhat small engine has the same issue with heads, typically cracking between the valve seats :/
and no, I don't work in the business, just have 2 stepdaughters and relatives that insist on buying non VAG (VW/Porsche/Audi) vehicles (those I can damn near work on with my eyes closed.)
Gunner wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Wife has a similar vehicle with a 4.0
Agree with other posters that a review of the EEC IV codes is in order, this is a quick check with just a jumper wire, then count flashes of the check engine light. No code reader needed, and the cheap ones for this system are nothing more than an integrated jumper wire and LED where you still have to count flashes.
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should have the codes, page down to their tech section, has stuff on EEC-IV and O2 sensors. I have heard of people wiring a toggle switch into the circuit instead of the jumper wire so that they only have to flip a switch from inside the cab to read the codes.
I've had similar issues with O2 sensors, but in my case, the problem was one of the wires had been pinched during a clutch replacement by a local shop, and was making intermittent contact. I elected to replace the sensor rather than replace the wire, it was suprisingly easy. The sensor didn't even fight me coming out of the crossover pipe. I think getting a screwdriver up behind the engine to unhook the harness was actually more difficult than the mechanical bits.
I would also check the EEG valve sensors on the left side of the motor, I had one of these sensor go bad, and have had the hoses get old and leak. These will have two hoses that go from the EGR riser tube into a little diecast sensor box on a bracket, one from either side of an internal restriction in the tube so as to determine flow rate. Also, the EGR tube had gotten leaky as well, and I ended up replacing the whole mess including the EGR valve.
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