As long as the type (platinum or titania, almost all are platinum),
mechanical dimensions, number of wires, and heater resistance (doesn't
apply to 1-wire sensors) are the same, then they're interchangeable.
324K is a long, long life for the sensor, and replacing it may give
you 10% better gas mileage.
Your truck should have a self-diagnosis system that can be activated
with a jumper wire, and if it's the Ford system instead of the Mazda
one, then it should also have an extensive set of built-in tests and
the ability to click actuators on and off when you toggle the gas
pedal and the ability to store codes when you tap or wiggle devices
and cables ("wiggle test" is the oficial name).
There could be up to 3 sensors on that vehicle; I'm not familiar with
it, but a 3.0 usually has 1 on each exhaust manifold and 1 post Cat
For THAT kind of money, I want to see that the sensor(s) is/are
defective. With these 2 eyes. On a digital storage oscilloscope.
Replacing all 3 might be required, and for that money, even if I had
to rent a scope, it would be worth the $ for the peace of mind to know
- this was the problem
- I didn't replace anything that didn't need replacing.
North wrote in
The 2.3L (140-I4) Pinto/Mustang/Ranger/everything else somewhat small
engine has the same issue with heads, typically cracking between the
valve seats :/
gee, I have one.... too bad I'm in Illinois.
and no, I don't work in the business, just have 2 stepdaughters and
relatives that insist on buying non VAG (VW/Porsche/Audi) vehicles
(those I can damn near work on with my eyes closed.)
Gunner wrote in
Wife has a similar vehicle with a 4.0
Agree with other posters that a review of the EEC IV codes
is in order, this is a quick check with just a jumper wire,
then count flashes of the check engine light. No code reader
needed, and the cheap ones for this system are nothing more
than an integrated jumper wire and LED where you still have
to count flashes.
the codes, page down to their tech section, has stuff on EEC-IV
and O2 sensors. I have heard of people wiring a toggle switch
into the circuit instead of the jumper wire so that they only
have to flip a switch from inside the cab to read the codes.
I've had similar issues with O2 sensors, but in my case, the
problem was one of the wires had been pinched during a clutch
replacement by a local shop, and was making intermittent contact.
I elected to replace the sensor rather than replace the wire, it
was suprisingly easy. The sensor didn't even fight me coming
out of the crossover pipe. I think getting a screwdriver up
behind the engine to unhook the harness was actually more
difficult than the mechanical bits.
I would also check the EEG valve sensors on the left side of the
motor, I had one of these sensor go bad, and have had the hoses
get old and leak. These will have two hoses that go from the
EGR riser tube into a little diecast sensor box on a bracket, one
from either side of an internal restriction in the tube so as to
determine flow rate. Also, the EGR tube had gotten leaky as well,
and I ended up replacing the whole mess including the EGR valve.
Hope that helps,