Removing screws?

If you can lean on the screwdriver very heavily, as in with a C clamp, if it is possible, it could help avoid stripping.

Reminds me of a saying which was true in my case: in the life of a boat owner, there are two happy days: the day he buys a boat and the day he sells it.

I forgot that one, but I'll have to buy a stubby Phillips to try it.

As for happy days though... I wouldn't credit that old saw too much.

You should have been out with us this weekend flying the new sails!

Then we anchored out and had a very happy night too! ;)

The manual impact drivers like those at the bottom of this page were the preferred method for removing stainless screws from aluminum spars when I was working in boatyards 30+ years ago. Almost always works if the screw head hasn't been buggered before applying the impact tool. You may have to support the hatch below the fastener you're working on to get the full benefit of the hammer blows.

If the heads do get ruined, try left hand spiral drill bits to drill 'em out. Ya never know when you will get lucky and they will spin out a fastener.

...But 18 years of SS / Alum. is a bad scene...

I bet the magic Kroil would loosen the corrosion given a day or two to soak in this 100 degree weather.

I considered that approach, Ned, but didn't try it because high impact force can cause fiberglass to delaminate.

Even if it could be supported solidly, a heavy handed hammer could crush fibers.

But thanks for the suggestion.

Iggy, the C clamp won the day.

I had to clamp a block of wood under the edge of the hatch opening and carve it a bit to get things parallel.

I used a brand new #2 Phillips bit (rather than a full screwdriver) because of limited clamp depth.

Three of them came put pretty clean. Just a little Iron Cross effect.

One I had to drill and use a small extractor. On that one, the bit/clamp slipped and tore up the head.

At least now I can get the thing home to work on it. There are 5 more screws to remove before the plastic will come out. And they don't have a chance of being clamped! The backing is beveled.

Pete? Would you email me a dab of Kroil???

Thanks all.

I don't think email will work for sending liquids, but if you want to PM me, I'll be in Plano Saturday and would be happy to bring down some Kroil.

I gotta go in to Dallas tomorrow.

Anyplace along 75 that I could for sure pick some up?

Check the Kano Labs site and see if they list any distributors you recognize. I ordered my gallon of Kroil direct from Kano.

Snip

This looks like a good application for a Helicoil insert. Drill the hole oversize with the bit provided in the kit,and screw in the coil. ( a bit of loc-tite at this stage doesn't hurt)

Do this hole with the Helicoil as well. It will mean that you can get both screws out when , 18 years from now, you want to take it off again.

Before you put the screw back into the Helicoiled thread, wrap the screw with a bit of Teflon plumbers tape.

Buy a Helicoil kit with at least 4 coils in it and do the lot of them at the one time. It will save you alot of agrivation later.

How big are the screws?

What kind of heads?

One possibility is a hammer-driven impact driver, where the hammer's force makes sure that the bit is firmly into the screw at the peak of torque.

Perhaps heat on the screw heads before you try this? A propane or MAAP torch? Don't hold the MAAP too long, or you might start melting the aluminum. :-)

Good Luck, DoN.

What an interesting can of worms that created! Web of Trust has them marked unreliable on reliability and privacy.

But Google said Granger carries it. that will probably do.

I was going to suggest a small strip of aluminum with nutplates riveted on and machine screws.

Use a step drill to clean up the holes?

Hot glue (or?) the plate to a stick and slide it into the tube to get the nuts in place and the screws started.

There is a miracle gel that the marina guys recommend, but I don't have the name handy. They are supposed to have some for me tomorrow or this weekend.

Will report back then.

Richard

Since the hatch was made in england, I suspect they are metric. Haven't checked yet. They look like #8 countersunk phillips about 1/4" or maybe 5/16" long.

Awesome, congrats

Try using a left handed drillbit--bear hard if it grabs--out comes screw. they sold some kits on TV a while back--drill bit shaped like base of narrow cone--drill socket--special shaped eze out to fit hole--looked like it would work good---I didn't order one.

I wouldn't call them "drill bits", but that's what I used on the one I had to drill. I always heard then referred to as "Exctactors".