Removing screws?

I have removed stubborn stripped screws with a pair of plain vise grips with good jaws. Of course, the screw has to have a shoulder like a machine screw, and not a countersunk like drywall screws. Just get the jaws good and tight and all the way down to the aluminum and twist backwards slowly. Of course, it doesn't always work, sometimes breaks the head off, sometimes strips off itself, and other methods of failure, but with a little luck, and maybe a little PB Blaster to soften it up, but be careful, as the PB may damage surrounding finish.
Good luck. You will need some.
Steve
Reply to
SteveB
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They make a brand of bits that have small striation marks on them. To me, they have a better bite.
Steve
Reply to
SteveB
thanks. i'll look for them. autoparts store? will helicoils work on thin metals? the wall thickness of the tube is ~1/8" or so, which is probably why the installer used thread cutting screws i guess, rather than a machine screw..
Reply to
charlie
Odd. I wonder if you got a look-alike scam site. kanolabs.com is the correct one I believe. I ordered a gallon of Kroil direct from Kano several years ago with no issues at all. The Kroil arrived in just a few days, and the only other thing I've received from them is an occasional flyer once a year or so.
Grainger, McMaster and a couple others I think, nothing really retail, indeed their order form specifically states "industrial use only" and "not intended for retail sale". Kroil seems to be something of an industrial secret.
Reply to
Pete C.
"cavelamb" wrote
Working on putting swivel wheels on my big sewing machine today so I can wheel it into the living room and start some canvas and shadecloth projects. Need shade over windows, and some over some porches. Shading windows does a lot to cut heat inside and helps cool without using a$ much electricity.
Steve
Reply to
SteveB
It looks like they are using a third party order site?
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Anyway, I went to NAPA today and bought an impact driver ($24 ~ not bad, for a $14 tool, I guess) and picked up a spray can of PB Blaster.
The next step in my project is to open up the hatch frame so the old glass can be removes and the new installed. That means removing more screws - oddly sized British stuff to boot. So I'd like to reuse them if at all possible.
But this part can be positioned on the bench so that I'm banging on solid stuff rather than the thin edge of the deck house.
BTW, I was wrong about the size of the ones I removed yesterday. A 10-32 will start on them, but quickly binds. And it looks like a fine thread. So I'm more pretty sure they are indeed metric.
Richard
Reply to
cavelamb
Steve!
I need to make a whole bunch of covers and the little Brother just can't do it.
Bring that sucker over here! I'll introduce you to my all girl crew!
Reply to
cavelamb
If they are British, threads might be BA. Metric pitch, but 47 degree thread angle.
Bob
Reply to
Bob
OOPs! Sorry 1/8" is a bit too thin for a Helicoil. Pehaps you could try a Nutsert. They are a cylinder with a female tread. It is fitted to a tool that looks like a Pop rivet gun,put into the hole and squeezed. It expands the bottom part of the cylinder and locks it in place. The guns are expensive as hell and the nuts aren't cheap either but you might be able to rent the gun. I think the inserts might be available in Monel or stainless.
Reply to
Grumpy

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