Removing wayard silver solder

I just tried my hand at silver soldering for the first time today (45%
silver, 1200 deg flow temp). I soldered up a crankshaft for a small model
steam engine I'm building. The problem is that I apparently used too much
silver solder on one of the joints and it formed a real nice fillet.
Unfortunately, that fillet is right where a piston rod needs to go. After
re-heating and various other attempts to remove the extra solder I have
found that either it isn't going to be easy to clean up this joint or, more
likely, I just don't know how to do it properly.
So, the question is, is there a trick to getting rid of this silver solder
fillet other than filing it off and re-polishing the journal? Thanks.
Reply to
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You MAY have luck using the technique for soft solder - a woven copper braid applied to the hot joint soaking up the surplus by capillary attraction.
For the future, paint typing correction fluid where you don't want the silver solder to go.
Andrew Mawson
Reply to
Andrew Mawson
Robert, The bad news is: you have to face it, there is no easy way to remove the excess silver solder. Its not like soft (lead/tin) solder that can be removed with a suction pump or solder wick. You will have to file or machine the suplus away and refinish as best you can. The good news is: you probably won't make the same mistake again.
-- Regards, Gary Wooding
(Change feet to foot to reply)
Reply to
Nice tip, Andrew. Thanks.
Reply to
Harold & Susan Vordos
Get some solda-wick at Radio Shack, or just braid from shield cable. Heat the joint and then "suck" the excess solder up by capillary action, like soaking up spilt liquid with a rag.
Reply to
Don Foreman
This is called "stop-off" It's available commercially as a solution, and also in paint markers.
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Reply to
jim rozen
On gun barrels and sights, I use some scrapers I have, otherwise it's time for the needle files. A soapstone marking crayon works as stop-off, welding suppliers carry those. I've never tried using capillary action from solder wick, I'd think that the high melting point of the filler would turn that into a gob of slag before it had a chance to do anything. Either that, or it would pull ALL the filler out of the joint, not what you want. Silver brazing is an acquired skill, you'll get better at it the more you do. Even with stop-off and anti-scale compound, you'll usually have to refinish parts after brazing. Some cleanup is always necessary, the flux is nasty stuff.
Reply to
Stan Schaefer

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