Shortening a Ford axle

1039 steel of flange mount bearings, 1050 if a c clip axle. 1050 is NOT easy to weld and should be pre and post heat treated. 1039 is a LOT easier.

My recommendation is counter bore both ends and insert a "pin" in both ends, chamfer the outer diameters, press the axle back together then weld together with E6013 low hydrogen rod with an arc voltage of about

30 volts - 110 amps for 5/32 rod. 60000 is plenty strong for the "light duty" this axle will be subjected to - particularly with the "splice" close to the middle of the axle. I would do this with my DC "buzz-box"

I machined a .3125d x .250" stub into the splined end , and a matching recess in the flange end .

chamfer the outer diameters,

both outer diameters are ground at a 30° for a 60° included angle from ~ 1/2" diameter .

press the axle back together then

I don't think 6013 is considered a low hydrogen rod ... 7018 is and I have an unopened package . However , ER70S6 MIG wire is definitely low hydrogen , and since I use CO2 as a shield gas , might actually match the base metal composition better . But then TIG with 309L is considered pretty much universal so ...

The splice is about an inch from the center . My TIG welder can also do arc DC , but I've never tried it . If a project needed arc welding I've always used my Lincoln tombstone AC welder .

For what it's worth - agree with Snag on weld consumable types.

6013 stick is quite high hydrogen - has to be as only source of shielding gas is the moisture in the rod. 7018 (CaCO3 based flux) is the "stick rod" which can be low hydrogen. If baked properly. Only if baked properly... 7018 needs DC - Direct Current Electrode Positive Reason can be backed to low hydrogen:

• flux can take the bake

• will dry at heat

• CO2 from dissociation of CaCO3 to CaO (powerful flux) and CO2 (becomes gas shield) is metallurgically why can be dry. That CO2 is not a lot. My reckoning is only use 7018 if have plenty of space to arc-up ahead of the weld - which you will progress over to burn/melt away the arc-start region - and only if you have a good long prep. over which to burn the entire rod no stopping and restarting. You can do that on an axle?

Snag, I'm sure you are much more practical that me. You will be knowing which welding process / method you are going with - for many reasons which will be in your experience

I agree about preheat. Hydrogen cracking isn't going to happen at 100degC or higher. Hold that temperature after welding to speed-up hydrogen dissipating away and your weld will be clear of hydrogen issues.

Best wishes, Rich S

I'm shortening an axle to replace a damaged one in a one-off Gold Wing powered FrankenTrike . The original axle assembly came from IIRC a Ford Pinto (or Maverick maybe) , modified for the trike . ...

------------------------ Maybe some help, not a DIY solution:

A company that cuts, resplines and heat treats "Alloy Axles" might be useful.

Interesting piece . I think this axle is going to see a lot less torque than a drag racer ... I would rather have re-splined the axle , but this is how the guy wanted it done . Right now I'm considering ways to rotate the axle while I lay a bead , uniformity is going to be the key to ending up with a straight axle . I have a 4 RPM gear motor that I think I can attach to the outboard end of the lathe spindle that might work , or possibly use a battery drill attached to the countershaft . The drill would give me speed control options ...

...Right now I'm considering ways to rotate the axle while I lay a bead , uniformity is going to be the key to ending up with a straight axle . I have a 4 RPM gear motor that I think I can attach to the outboard end of the lathe spindle that might work , or possibly use a battery drill attached to the countershaft . The drill would give me speed control options ... Snag

------------------------------ Can you have the owner slowly turn it, faster or slower on your instructions, and be partly responsible for the outcome?

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I used to do some production work that called for turning while welding. Using MIG I was able to turn the items by hand. It's really easy to speed up, slow down, stop... whereas doing this with a motor isn't quite so intuitive🤷

I'd 2nd turning it by hand, it's something I've done on a number of occasions and it works well. When I've done it with a MIG I only have to concentrate on turning the piece, pulling the trigger doesn't require much thought, the result look like it was automated, it's something I make a couple of dozen at a time so the MIG torch is clamped in position and the part mounted on a simple jig for rotation with a hand crank. Stick welding was a bit more challenging as having to concentrate on turning with one hand and welding with the other but the results turned out well, if I had more than one to do I expect I would get better with each one.

Good point . I'm also considering attaching the MIG gun to the tool post and turning the lathe spindle with a crank handle ... that will give me better control of arc length and rotation speed .

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For me at least... it isn't easy to keep good shielding gas coverage on round objects like an axle. It wants to sink and flow around the area needing coverage. If your settings are low, allowing the weld to cool rapidly it isn't so bad. If your settings (MIG) are high and the weld cools slowly good shield coverage can suffer.

I'd be tempted to make a small box with a slot for the axle to fit through. The box will fill with shield gas and spill out over the top and slot. With these design characteristics in mind make it such that the weld area is within the pooled shield gas and you'll have a lot better shielding gas coverage🤷

I'd likely clamp a bar or some sort of support in the area to rest my wrist/arm/gun on. This would allow you to still make small adjustments to the weld pool area...

I've used a foil enclosure before to help keep shield gas where it's needed ... the axle is currently set up in the lathe with a steady rest and the tailstock maintaining alignment . I want to keep it fixtured like this while I weld .

I've used a foil enclosure before to help keep shield gas where it's needed ... the axle is currently set up in the lathe with a steady rest and the tailstock maintaining alignment . I want to keep it fixtured like this while I weld . Snag

------------------------ Yesterday I had a similar problem, to press a small diameter countersink into the drilled end of a 5/16" rod, to countersink close to an obstruction on the new sawmill blade guides.

The lathe wasn't enough to press it in so I used a vee block for alignment in the milling vise. I think you could make a similar fixture from angle iron, a long piece for alignment with two shorter pieces separated by a gap for the weld bead. U bolts could loosely hold top clamping stock. The angle would help contain the gas and the lathe wouldn't be damaged by spatter or current through the bearings.

I've been (trying to) keep the lathe covered with old towels . I got it welded up , there's about .005" runout , which considering how not-straight the axle was to begin with isn't bad . More than I wanted , but close enough .

Point you have probably thought of... The axle could be upright while welding - so doing a "2G" / "PC" rotated weld. Rotating slowly.

Point you have probably thought of... The axle could be upright while welding - so doing a "2G" / "PC" rotated weld. Rotating slowly.

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The only home shop machine tool I know of that could support and rotate a long upright object at the ends and middle is a woodworking Shopsmith, set upright as a drill press but with lathe centers. I have one like this

I've used to drill into the ends of single bed corner posts to make into a bunk bed.

The saw table mount isn't stiff enough to resist much side pressure, otherwise it was very useful. My father and I made custom sized kitchen cabinet doors on it, mine with wood panels, his with glass. The quill feed and depth stop give almost micrometer adjustment of the gap between the saw blade and rip fence.

Can't beat the Lincoln AC/DC box for general purpose welding. (the only "arc" welder I own) For fussy stuff I have a friend TIG it or I use the Henrob. Should have said 6018 for low hydrogen but a perfectly dry 6013 ALMOST meets low hydrogen definition (and a damp

6018 also ALMOST meets spec -- - )

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I saw this while looking for a 6-jaw. It might be a good use for a beat-up lathe chuck and a spare hub:

I bought the headstock from a scrapped lathe for such use.

Don't tell me you are going to piss off every wannabee Cha Cha Muldowney by destroying a Ford 9 inch rear end.

I think "most" full size vehicle axles are medium to medium hard steel. Maybe around .6 (+/-). If its to hard/high it will snap or shatter, but its hardenable enough I've watched guys make knives out of them on Forge and Fire. I know we have used old axles as tent stakes when putting up event shelters. They will take a sledge hammer blow without shattering.

Nah , I think he said it was a Pinto axle . And it was about knife hard , could mark it with a good file with some pressure . He picked it up yesterday , pretty sure he's got it installed by now . Turned out the best way I have to cut it was with my Dremel as a tool post grinder using reinforced cutting discs . Parted it with an angle grinder with a cutting disc too . Now if someone ever asks ... why yes , yes I have cut down an axle !