Should I use hardfacing rod ?

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Snag 1 month ago

I want to build up the cutting edges on the blades on my brush hog , they're worn and the bottom side is no longer flat . I found some hardfacing rod for a reasonable price that's for "moderate abrasion and low impact application" . The blades are supposed to be around 38-42 hardness , the rod is around 52-58 , I assume the variability is due to mixing with the base material . I have on hand ER70 and 308 , 309 , and

312 TIG filler and ER70 and 308/309 MIG wire . If one of the selections I have on hand will be better than the hardfacing I can save a few bucks ... I also have 6011 , 6013 , and 7018 electrodes .

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Jim Wilkins 1 month ago

I want to build up the cutting edges on the blades on my brush hog , they're worn and the bottom side is no longer flat . I found some hardfacing rod for a reasonable price that's for "moderate abrasion and low impact application" . The blades are supposed to be around 38-42 hardness , the rod is around 52-58 , I assume the variability is due to mixing with the base material . I have on hand ER70 and 308 , 309 , and

312 TIG filler and ER70 and 308/309 MIG wire . If one of the selections I have on hand will be better than the hardfacing I can save a few bucks ... I also have 6011 , 6013 , and 7018 electrodes . Snag

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Hatchets, axes and the bandsaw blades for my sawmill are soft enough to sharpen with a file, and dent instead of chip on a rock. My uncle used a splitting maul to remove a lump from Grandma's granite front step. They lived within sight of the quarry and rejects were available for free. When I inherited it I built up and sharpened the missing edge with (IIRC) the ER70 in my MIG and it's held up well to the mild duty of splitting oak firewood.

Does anyone have experience with Rivnuts? I bought the Hardell tool and stainless rivnuts to attach 18ga galvanized repair panels to originally closed car frame box channels that had rusted out on the lower edge. Welding would burn off interior rust inhibitor.

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? I tested one to destruction with a 1/4-20 Gr2 bolt. Tightening beyond what the installation tool did further compressed the rivnut bulge at constant torque without making it rotate, after it bottomed out the bolt head sheared off. The threaded end still unscrewed easily. I think that may be a good enough qualification.

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Bob La Londe 1 month ago

I have used the cheap Harbor freight rivnut tool that looks like a cheap rivet tool to set aluminum rivnuts. I have also used a totally armstrong hand operated tool you drive/hold with wrenches to set steel rivnuts. I recently bought the Vevor heavy duty rivnut tool, but have not yet used it for its intended purpose. It didn't come with a couple sizes I use all the time, but I think I can make the mandrels for those.

Yep. Good enough is one of the hardest things to learn. Its even harder when employees try to equate good enough with I don't want to work any more/harder.

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