Wow, you name it! Unstable mixture, water in the gas, dirty spark plug,
degraded magneto coil, bad points (if it has them), wrong ignition
timing (can be the shearable key in the flywheel), loose head bolts,
bad valves. Hmm, can't think of too many more.
How old is the gas? Has it been stored under cover, in the dry, or in
damp where water could get into gas. First step is drain any old gas
and put in fresh gas of lowest ethanol content you can find.
Good idea to drain the carb float bowl too and make sure it is clean.
If the carb is gummed up it will usually run lean - and a lean blower
engine will "hunt". Turn the mixture screw out until it settles down
(usually 1/4 turn or so) and put a cleaner in the gas. I'm partial to
SeaFoam, but MMO has been reported to give good results too - likely
take a bit longer from my experience, and a can of SeaFoam and a
bottle of MMO are about the same price, Once the cleaner has done
it's thing you can turn the screw back in to the proper mix.
35 now in Grass Pants, OR. It has been 23F this week, some days
warming up to a balmy 40, others to a roasting 50. We're due for a
cold snap next week. Time to stock up my pantry, just in case.
That white stuff makes going up the steep hill to town quite a chore
in a 2x2 truck.
Make awkward sexual advances, not war.
The gas is a year old, or more. (I used it last year, but the gas in
the can may have been old even then).
I ran it out of gas yesterday, dumped old gas from the can, and bought
new gas. I will try it on new gas and will report.
How are you storing the blower during the off season? In our clime
(I'm west of you one state), and you can store your lawnmowers over
the winter as the gasoline generally does not evaporate the light
hydro-carbons. BUT never store chainsaws, snow blowers or any other
tool with gasoline over the summer (unless your using them often), as
you end up with tar (the heavy HCs) in the carburetor. Even if you
have a gas shutoff, unless you run the fuel bowl dry, you end up with
the fuel jet ports plugged/fowled.
You may end up having to remove the carburetor and soak in cleaner.
Depends on if you don't have a shutoff, and it sat in a storage shed
Darn, this was a nice winter until Thursday. At least it's 6 weeks
later then normal.
I was gonna suggest something like your example when EA was askin' about a
When I looked them up, there were lots of examples online, of yard machines
and utility equipment run with H&M many years ago.
The larger oil well pumps I've seen around western PA (made in local
foundries), have had spoked cast iron flywheels up to 5 feet in diameter..
many of 'em sitting idle, going to waste.
There are numerous pumps still in use, as close as about 10 miles from the
city, then scattered randomly all over the place.
Gunner Asch wrote in
Had any nice earthquakes lately? I'll stick with misery that can be
forecasted several days in advance, and won't destroy my house in an
Actially, a 2X2 would be an all wheel drive bicycle - and a 1X1 a
Unicycle. Definitely no good in snow.
Proper terminology is a 4X2 - with 4X1 being what you guys are trying
to call the truck with an open diff.
It really DOES have 2 wheel drive. If you want to see what 1 wheel
drive handles like, you want to try an early King Midget. When the
drive wheel is in the inside of a turn it shoots you like a slingshot,
and on the outside of a turn it handles quite docile.
The nut's an auto-LSD (limited slip), but the stocker Michelins won't
take it up a wet 15 degree farm field slope without a running start.
I'm hoping the Bridgestones I put on late next year (when I get
another spare $800) fare better.
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson