Speaking Of Welding

Feb 19, 2025 Last reply: 1 year ago 53 Replies

At the moment I have 2 old group 29 deep cycles, and 3 fairly new ones.

*Walmart deep cycle batteries. I am thinking about eliminating them for their current application. 36 & 24 volt trolling motors. I recently picked up a 36V volt 100ah lithium for that application.

Two of them in parallel (the old ones even) can easily exceed the duty cycle of the Warn winch. Until last year I didn't even realize winches had a duty cycle, but the Warn cut out doing an off road recovery and I had to switch to snatch straps for the **second vehicle. I prefer a low impact recovery, but shock loading does work. To be fair the winch probably wouldn't have moved the second wheel in a safe direction anyway.

My thought is with short pulls and reasonable cool downs a single deep cycle on the trailer with it being charged by the truck should be more than adequate for most jobs.

Not to long ago I bought some plastic battery boxes from WalMart for a pair of those group 29s, and I had to use the included spacers to keep the battery from sliding around in the box. They would have easily held a group 31 or larger. They were the cheapest battery boxes I found for a temporary setup. I don't recall if I bought them in store or ordered them off the WalMart website. I'm thinking I picked them up in store because I was in a hurry at the time.

As to lithium batteries. I think they are probably best suited to long term low current applications like RVs, but they do have some that can push some current. Not enough in my opinion for cranking over anything more than small utility engines, but I've seen reviews of 12V LiFePo batteries pushing insane current for a short time before they shut off.

  • I've found the Walmart deep cycles have a better life to price ratio than more expensive batteries. When I fished 2 - 4 tournaments (sometimes 5 if you count Wednesday afternoon buddy tournaments) a month a set of group 31 AGM batteries lasted a around 3 years of hard use for. At a fraction of the price the Walmart group 29 deep cycle batteries lasted about 18 months and Walmart would replace them for free when they died. I don't think the warranty is as good as it used to be, but I have had deep cycle Walmart batteries replaced for free as recently as 2 or 3 years ago. As a side note I use a Walmart brand type F in my John Deere and it far outlasts the exponentially more expensive John Deere batteries. Since 2007 the Deere battery died in 2010, and I am on only my second Walmart battery since. I keep thinking its time for it to die and the tractor just keeps starting. As a second side note: The older
2 Walmart group 29s are pushing 4 or 5 years now of light intermittent use.

** Somebody attempted to rescue a vehicle gone off the "trail" on the side of a sand hill down by the river, and got themselves stuck. He had such a crappy attitude if I didn't need to drag him out of the way to get to the other guy I would have left him there. I'm going to miss that old white Chevy.

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  • I've found the Walmart deep cycles have a better life to price ratio than more expensive batteries.

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Thanks. The Duracell / East Penn marine batteries I used to depend on for >10 year life don't last half that now.

I'm not saying the WalMart batteries are better. I just believe they cost less per service hour.

The Crown GC2H 115AH 6 volt golf cart batteries I used in the modified Fiat "ElectraMobile" did pretty good until some J@ck@$$ disconnected the maintainer over a VERY COLD winter and they froze to death. Dor heavy use I like 2 bib sixes in series rather than 2 twelves paralleled.

The Crown GC2H 115AH 6 volt golf cart batteries I used in the modified Fiat "ElectraMobile" did pretty good until some J@ck@$$ disconnected the maintainer over a VERY COLD winter and they froze to death. Dor heavy use I like 2 bib sixes in series rather than 2 twelves paralleled.

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I've seen several off-gridders recommend 6V instead of 12V, though none explained why. Price and availability sent me to 12V.

There used to be a huge aftermarket in reduced capacity used 6V batteries. Good AH per dollar spent for the penny pinchers. New ones were crazy expensive though. My electric scissors lifts both used 4 large 6V deep cycles. The second time I replaced a set I said screw this, and dropped a pair of 12V deep cycles in their place. I had about half the run time, but 1/4 the price. If I needed more run time I could have just tied in another bank in parallel and still been half the cost of 4 big sixes.

There used to be a huge aftermarket in reduced capacity used 6V batteries. Good AH per dollar spent for the penny pinchers. New ones were crazy expensive though. My electric scissors lifts both used 4 large 6V deep cycles. The second time I replaced a set I said screw this, and dropped a pair of 12V deep cycles in their place. I had about half the run time, but 1/4 the price. If I needed more run time I could have just tied in another bank in parallel and still been half the cost of 4 big sixes. Bob La Londe

------------------------------------- The large UPS aftermarket I sometimes score in seems to be all 12V. My APCs take 24V so I need relatively matched pairs for them. These help measure and monitor their condition:

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You have to guess and set the Ah capacity when fully charged, it measures the actual Ah capacity with a full discharge. On recharge when it reaches the set capacity it stops counting, which is appropriate for a lead-acid on float or trickle that still accepts (and wastes) a small current when fully charged. Watt-hours isn't too useful because wire IR drop affects the voltage.

Bestek sells nice, fairly inexpensive true sine inverters in 300W and 500W.

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In my past life as a contractor I fixed UPS units all the time. They all had 12V 7AH gel cells. There might have been a few big units with

10AH batteries, but 99% of them used the same old 12V 7AH gel battery. Since I used 12V 7AH batteries in every burglar alarm, fire alarm, and cellular or radio back up communicator I usually had two cases on the shelf. Never less than one case and if I got down to one I already had more on the way.

Generally my goal with those batteries (whatever the application) was to have to do nothing with my feet up on my desk and receive the service contract checks in the mail. I bought the best batteries I could find. I'm sure all the prices have changed, but my cost back in the day for an inexpensive 12/7 was around $7-9 and the cost for what I decided anecdotally was the best was about $15. If I could go 3-5 years (unless contracted other wise) instead of 1-3 I was money ahead to use the better batteries. I installed thousands of 12/7 batteries, and probably hundreds of 12/4s where 12/7s wouldn't fit.

It used to be Yuasa made the best batteries, but they went through some shakeups and name change and might not be exactly the same company anymore. The last time I bought some they held up, so they may still be the best 12/7 gel battery available.

I need to order some again soon. One of my access control expansion modules is sending me a low battery signal.

The absolute worst gel batteries and worst customer service was from Interstate, although most of that might have been the local dealer.

When the battery in my free UPS went TU I had a 12/9 battery I had bought online intended for use with my electric pivoting jib crane (for firewood handling) that I decided was not sufficient for it's intended purpose . But with a slight terminal modification it slipped right into that UPS like it was made for it . I still hate that beep , but it does tell me when the power goes out .

In my past life as a contractor I fixed UPS units all the time. They all had 12V 7AH gel cells. There might have been a few big units with

10AH batteries, but 99% of them used the same old 12V 7AH gel battery.

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I lucked onto two APC1400s at flea markets, one free-to-fix, the other $20. They have true sine outputs with enough surge capacity to start my compact refrigerator, so they are its power outage backup. They are older beige ones that haven't been disabled with timers for off-grid (mis)use. I'm told they can run continuously at 750W. The fridge draws less than 100W running. The internal batteries are two 12V, 18As and the battery disconnect plug on the rear is an Anderson SB50 that can be rewired from series to parallel for external deep cycle input.

Their disadvantages are fairly high idle draw comparable to the fridge, typical of sine inverters, and no easy way to command them On from battery-powered Standby with an external load sensing circuit. That command is missing from the otherwise pretty complete remote control set, though it's available manually. jsw

Is it by any chance the same physical size as the 12/7 gel batteries? I found a lot of companies marketing their batteries as higher AH, but were the same physical size. In practice the Yuasa batteries cost more and lasted longer.

Yup , exactly the same size . The only things plugged into that UPS are my desktop comp and the modem/router/telephone base unit . When it starts beeping I shut down the comp and printer , leave the comm equipment on so I can track the outage on my laptop and get updates .

My experience too. The "uprated" battery - 12-8 or 12-9 put out more power initially, but just plain did NOT stand up. There is a LOT of terribly CRAPPY UPS batteries out there today - and at $39 canadian each too.

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