Thread conversion question

You can probably rent a "universal" puller for a day at a local auto parts shop for just a few bucks. I know that the Auto Zone stores around me have all sorts of tools to rent.

HTH,

Jeff

HTH, Nick

Nice. So you're the guy who fucks up all the threads on the old bikes by screwing in whatever handy non-metric crap you have on hand.

Try ronayers.com for Honda special tools. Or maybe Motion-Pro.

Or maybe just sod off and sell the bike to someone who'll appreciate it and actually take care of it.

Fucking retards. Grrrrrr.

-gc

Lets see.

1.5 - 1.5875 = .0875 mm = .0034" (roughly the thickness of one curly hair) over one inch of thread engagement

It wouldn't be ideal because it would concentrate the load in a small area instead of distributing it over the entire threaded area, so for a given press load you may risk exceeding the yield point of the metal in the thread. But yes, a .860" - 16 TPI shaft would probably work. Just don't force it. If the shaft were brass it would reduce risk of distorting or galling your part

Wayne,

If you do a search on McMaster.com for all thread and then select metric, you'll probably find what you need at a pretty decent price.

You should work on your quoting and where you place your answers.

Nick

That's the difference for each pitch, over 1" you would have a difference of 0.055". I don't think you would be able to engage the

So why not just keep a torch on the workpiece and heat the hell out of it while you're cutting the 16 TPI thread? When it cools down it should be the right size to go in like a greased c*ck.

Jeff (Kidding of course...)

Sorry, I didn't pick up on how you described it, But I should have realized that 22 mm was far larger than the bolts needed for something similar to a steering wheel puller.

Does the too you need screw right down a center hole of the flywheel do do its "pushing", once you remove a few bolts holding the flywheel onto the crank hub?

Jeff

Interesting idea. I had ignored the effects of expansion recently when machining some items without coolant and they got hot. I finished them to the intended size while hot and then checked the fit later after they cooled and was annoyed with myself as the fit wasn't as good as intended although not critical for the purpose. When I checked the COE against the difference the parts must have been about 160C above ambient after roughing the parts. Live and learn not to ignore the temp rise.

Anyway back to your idea with a COE for carbon steel of 0.00000633 / F and 0.055" error that should give 0.055"/0.00000633 or 8689F (4809C)temp rise to correct the pitch error. Not to practical as the glowing workpiece would make it difficult to see the cut. Might be easier to just pour the molten steel into the crankshaft end to cast the puller piece.

If I may. The "flywheel" has a tapered center hole and woodruff key to locate on the end of the crank. The crank also has a threaded end beyond the taper for a nut and lockwasher. The flywheel is counterbored where the nut resides and has an internal thread, in this case 22M x 1.5. So after the nut is removed, a puller threads into that hole and the puller has a bolt through it which pushes on the end of the crank to force the flywheel off the taper. In most cases this flywheel is aluminum except for the steel center, so it's not good to use a claw type puller on it. It's usually just a magnet carrier for the magneto or electronic ignition.

Fred

What I used to do, when I was a teenager, was lie the bike on its side, loosen the nut on the crank, find a big centre punch and beat on the end of the crank till the flywheel popped loose. I cannot really recommend this method as it must be hard on something in the lower end of the motor, and doesn't do any good to the centre hole on the crank but I must have done it on 25 different bikes with no apparent ill effects. Almost all of the 40 or so motorcycles that passed through my hands as a teenager were one step from the scap yard, $50 was what I paid for a bike (everything from lambretta scooters to Kawaski triples and Montesa trial bikes) not a flywheel puller. I have fond memories of rewinding a magneto coil by hand and adapting a snowmobile electronic ignition module to a Honda XL600 (I was living on Baffin island in the Arctic that summer).

stan

Not so sure I will do the beat it with a stick method, I did find a Honda dealer with a heart, and they will sell the tool for $10.00, its a bit of a drive but they are nice. The local dealer wants $55.00 for the tool (a dam threaded rod) and is just plain on cloud nine. They here the year of my bike and don't want to give me the time of day.

According to ff :

O.K. A thread pitch of 1.5mm works out to pretty close to 17 TPI (16.93333 TPI, or 0.39% error), and at least my Clausing quick-change box does not hit that thread. It skips from 16 TPI to 18 TPI. If your lathe is a manual change gear machine, you might be able to find a combination of gears which will give you 17 TPI

Good Luck, DoN.

I already looked there for it. Nada.

You obviously haven't had to deal with otherewise nice old Japanese bikes that have been ruined by every damn fastener on it being some flavor of non-metric "it sorta fits" crap.

I've had to fix these travesties.

-gc