I did just what you're doing then I took mine to the local motorcycle mechanic (not dealer). He charged me $10 to pop it lose. Not how I wanted to do it but cheaper than all the time I wasted. Karl
wayne mak wrote:
None actually. But I've had to be really careful and use the right tool and a ton of patience. The couple of times I've had really hard times taking off an exhaust ('82 GS1100GL and '84 CB450SC) I replaced the studs with stainless steel Allens from McMaster-Carr or where-ever. I did have to Helicoil two of the stud holes on the GS.
That would be 3.
I had a gear-pair on the '85 RZ-350 decide to develop a rough spot and start eating shift forks. I pulled it apart and replaced the fork & gear-pair. It wasn't that difficult. It ran for another 3 years without a problem. Did you know that Yamaha 350 Banshee quads use RZ-350 motors w/o the powervalve? So transmission parts are cheap, comparatively.
I've worked on the transmission for a CB360, replacing a shift cam, which was really difficult because the parts were so tiny. But it worked for at least another 15,000 miles that I know of. It wasn't my bike.
I also replaced the transmission on the GS1100GL where the bearings had come out and gotten between the gears. In addition to stripping off gear teeth, the main shaft had a hairline crack for nearly it's entire length. I wish I'd known that BEFORE I bought it.
I've also replaced all the piston rings in an '85 GS550EF.
I've even written a transmission sim in Java on my website at .
-gc
A neat trick if the stud is broken below the surface is to get a bolt to fit into the hole and drill a pilot hole in the bolt and drill through the pilot hole.
John
If anyone has a parts 73' XL350..I need some bits and pieces..primary sprocket cover, ignition switch and so forth.
Gunner
"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3
Ohh, nice one! I will have to remember that.
To drill out an exhaust stud on one bike, I had to remove the front forks to be able to put the drill in the right place.
I was standing right there when I told the guy he needed to try a different approach to getting the nut off, when we heard "CLICK" and that was all she wrote. :-)
Recently I was trying to get the ignition switch out of my SV-650 when I used one of those cheap security Torx from Auto-Zone and it totally butchered the bolt head. It didn't help that there was an inch of Loctite on it too. I finally took the top triple-clamp off (which I should have done in the first place) drilled the head off, and when I took the switch off there was a good 20mm to grab with a Vise Grip.
-gc
Sounds like you have a solution. If that falls through, 22 mm by 1.5 is a standard size and I have a die 8-).
Dan
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