tough paint/primer for wood

"B.B." fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@ia.vsrv- sjc.supernews.net:

Try an epoxy appliance enamel. Once fully (*air*) cured, it's almost completely solvent resistant.

LLoyd

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

Order a small can of Plucid from POR15.com. Water clear in color. Takes

Good luck

Jim Vrzal Holiday, Fl.

That's "Pelucid" (sp):

Bob

How about some plain old fiberglass epoxy?

Dave

It will weather not so nicely due to UV, but it is the toughest coating available. Adding UV inhibitor supposedly helps. I used it on some wood and it is great for protecting wood that is outside all the time.

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 06:02:39 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Mawdeeb quickly quoth:

Jim, how does this Pelucid product differ from other polyurinestains? Oops, I meant "polyurethanes." At $42 a QUART...

-- Men never do evil so completely and cheerfully as when they do it from religious conviction. - Blaise Pascal

There is a tendency towards overkill in these threads. d8-)

Two-part epoxy marine paints are probably the most readily available in small quantities, and they do a good job. Clear laminating epoxy resins would do OK if you don't leave the toolbox in the sun for long periods of time. Two-part polyurethane paint for brushing has a slight edge in resisting most chemicals, but not all. It's also expensive as hell, and you can get caught up in the different properties of polyester polyurethanes versus acrylic polyurethanes, which are slightly different in their chemical resistance.

That's all overkill, anyway. Unless I was up for some research, I'd go to a big paint store and find some marine-grade two-part epoxy. It doesn't brush or cover very nicely. Depending on the instructions on the can, I've usually used two coats on boats, with just enough time between coats for the first to get rubbery but not hard. Time depends on the formulation. It's usually

Don't let one coat get hard before you put on another or you'll get a lousy bond between layers. A nice thing about epoxy is that if your plywood is starting to delaminate and you really slop the paint into the loose edges it will restore them to better strength than they originally had. Thickness of the layer doesn't matter; it cures like epoxy glue, rather than drying. The same is true for the two-part polyurethane.

If you want overkill, contact the manufacturers. There's a list at this site:

-- Ed Huntress

Chemically, I don't have a clue. I use it on replacement wood on boat jobs. The backs of furniture and decking. Most expoxies will stick to the wood but breaks down over time due to flexing from thermal and physical vibration. This product soaks in nicely on wood because it is slightly heavyier than water. I pre-drill any holes before the first coat and I apply a second just to be sure I didn't miss a spot or edge.

The hard part is waiting for the full cure. Everybody is in a hurry and boat owners are the worst. You tell them 10 days and they are bust my chops by the 4th.

Most of the jobs I do are covered by the 8 ounce can and a little goes a long way. Down side is once you open the can your commited time wise. The stuff does not last on the shelf well. Only order what you need. It will hold a month or two tops after opening. And I wouldn't plan on keeping an un-opened can for more than six months.

Hope this helps

Jim Vrzal Holiday, Fl.

On Fri, 05 Oct 2007 10:16:24 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Mawdeeb quickly quoth:

So you pre-drill before you pre-coat the pre-sanded surfaces? ;) (I wonder, who came up with that term, "pre-drill", anyway?)

I get the same thing with concrete and woodwork finishes. You can spend twenty hours prepping but if you try to hurry a finish, it'll screw things up horribly and you'll have to spend even more time letting it cure before fixing it. then there's the open-air time to let it breathe out all the solvents so it doesn't reek in the house (or in your case, boat.)

Ah, I was going to ask that question. I guy gallons of Waterlox and have to put an inert gas on top (Bloxygen or propane, whatever's handy at the time. I haven't tried argon from the TIG setup yet.) to keep it from skinning or jelling on me. I wonder if your opened-can shelf life would be extended, too, from following that procedure.

I bought some of the POR15 once. It has the same shelf life issue. With nothing to lose, I put an opened can in the refrigerator and it was usable 1 year later. Hardly a scientific study & YMMV, of course.

Bob

How well does the propane work? Say, after a year? I tried CO2 a few times, but it didn't work. I consider it inert, but it does have a lot of "O".

Bob

Flush and backfill the can with argon from the TIG.

I've had expensive automotive urethane clearcoats that "shelf out" in

I think the POR stuff cures by exposure to moisture. Welding argon is inert and extremely dry.

Golly, you guys would complicate getting laid to the point that nobody would try...

A piece of plastic sheet cut an inch or so larger diameter than the can. Lay it on top of the paint. It seals to the sides all by itself.