Trailer Tie Down Points

Feb 09, 2026 Last reply: 5 months ago 5 Replies

My intermediate trailer has no proper tie down points at all. Its a two axle flat bed between the wheel wells with a welded rail. I typically find myself either hooking into the top rail, or the bottom of the vertical supports for the rail. Looks like two 5000lb axles. I think the heaviest thing it has hauled is a few modern compact sedans, Ranger pickup, 42 GPW, and I think my dad hauled my JD3320 with it once or twice. In between I used it to bring the Hurco KMB1 back from Hemet, Ca when I bought it.



I've debated welding something on the bed for ages, but the outside ring of the bed is just 1/8 in x 2 angle. Modern weld on D-rings seem like brutal overkill for the applications.



In my various searches for cool tools I ran across these things.

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Short version of the link:
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Its not at all a solution for the previous trailer, but these might just be the magic sauce for the goose neck trailer which has an outside rail, and stake pockets between the rail and the bed.


My intermediate trailer has no proper tie down points at all. Its a two axle flat bed between the wheel wells with a welded rail. I typically find myself either hooking into the top rail, or the bottom of the vertical supports for the rail. Looks like two 5000lb axles. I think the heaviest thing it has hauled is a few modern compact sedans, Ranger pickup, 42 GPW, and I think my dad hauled my JD3320 with it once or twice. In between I used it to bring the Hurco KMB1 back from Hemet, Ca when I bought it.

I've debated welding something on the bed for ages, but the outside ring of the bed is just 1/8 in x 2 angle. Modern weld on D-rings seem like brutal overkill for the applications.

Bob La Londe

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Loops of webbing are very handy to make temporary attachments. These are the loop knots:

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and a Prusik attaches the loops firmly to the (deburred) rail:
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For heavier loads they can be made from climbing rope, either nylon Dynamic which is elastic or polyester Static which isn't.

Hardware store "poly" webbing isn't strong enough for serious rigging.

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Keep your eyes open for some good heavy duty 5 inch E-TracK. Alloes you to put the tie-downs exactly where you want them instead of just where the stake pockets are. 5" is good for 6000 lbs per strap with the proper e-hooks

102 inche anywhere in the continental 50 and Canada - 108 in Hawaii. Not aware of any state not allowing 102 on local routes even though the 102 is stipulated for the national highway routes. To be safe stick to 101 to avoid arguemnts with Leos who can't read a tape measure or don't hold it square.

Has that changed in the last few decades? Used to be 8' anywhere and

8'6" on all interstate highways. That's what I was taught a long time ago anyway.

I'll have to do some looking. The e-track I have seen readily available is light duty stuff.

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