tried to machine titanium

onlinemetals was having a sale so I got a foot of 1/2" titanium round in "grade 2", whatever that is.
I tried it out on the Sherline lathe. The stuff makes stainless steel look like brass. Never seen anything work harden as fast, or make such nasty sharp chips that never break off and just make a brillo pad.
Like the folks on the internet say, as long as you don't interrupt your cut and don't back off on cutting pressure, it's not bad at all.
The real struggle is always with parting off as everythings wants to slip out of square on the tiny lathe. I measured the thicknes of the chip that came off with a HSS parting blade at 0.005 when things we running OK.
I cut with "relion" cutting fluid, and got a little smoke as Ti gets hot when cutting as it's apparently a bad conductor of heat.
The stuff takes a decent finish and cleans up real nice with fine sandpaper if you're real forceful.
Can't wait to try to cut some threads on it.
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hot

As a pyrotechnician, I can also tell you it's HIGHLY flammable. Keep it wet with coolant always. I've seen the aftermath of "dry cutting" on Ti, and it isn't pretty when a large pile of chips ignites!
Well... it IS pretty when it's in a pyro effect, but not so much on your lathe chip pan! <G>
Lloyd
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"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 17:10:44 -0500 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

    And do not, should it catch fire, put water on it. No joy: steam explosions and burning underwater. -- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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C'mon, Gunner! A Sherline IS a "real" lathe. It's not a GOOD lathe, but it's very, very 'real'.
Lloyd
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Yeah... but you can touch it. It will turn. It will make crude things that look almost round.
It's 'real', just not _desireable_.
LLoyd
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On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 05:28:48 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:

In Wieberworld a real lathe sits unused because it's a gearbox-busting blanket-magnet. A real truck sits in the shop waiting for repair money to be scrounged. A real wife has multiple boyfriends. A real house arrived on wheels and sits on a rented lot. And a real mind lies to itself and everyone.
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Your word is worthless.

You don't have a shop. You have a poorly enclosed carport with a dirt floor and a rollup door that someone threw away. You "engineered" a sad and ugly installation, your trademark.

How many months is that? I had a serious failure of my own truck. Put it on the hoist, diagnosed the problem, picked up the parts. Next day installed them, back on the road. Strange how the people you claim are incompetent can do the things you have to pay others to do for you, eh?

Too bad you couldn't afford to hire someone competent.

How the fuck would you know?

It could have been decent if it wasn't installed on such a shit lot and didn't have pigs living in it.
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For small parts, it's the right tool and it works great.
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I agree. I do not have a Sherline lathe, but its reputation is that if you don't try to over work it the work it produces will be good.
Pencils? Why? Pens are the way to go. You make pencils by extruding wood goop around a core.
Its like saying a Taig 2019CR isn't a real mill or that its bad. Its good at being what it is. An inexpensive small mill for making small parts. I made tens of thousnads of dollars worth of parts on my Taig, and it paid for my next couple machines. It didn't make any of those parts very fast though.
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Yeah... I even have a little Unimat on the shelf. I use it only seldom, but I've made some nice "microscopic" parts on it. The only drawback is that I use it so seldom, I often have to replace the O-ring belts before it will work again!
LLoyd
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On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 14:05:17 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

My old mentor at American Machinist, Bob Hatschek, used a Unimat in the only production application I've ever seen for one. He made a little aluminum and brass gadget known as the "Hatschek Hook," a release hook for high-class model gliders. It weighed a fraction of an ounce and it had quite a bit of machining on it, all done on the Unimat.
Bob sold over 1,000 of them, worldwide, to model glider competitors. It wasn't cheap.
--
Ed Huntress

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On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 14:05:17 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

Leave the "safety cover" open, and the "O" rings will run cooler and last longer.
--

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.ca fired this volley in

I guess you didn't read my post. I never run it long enough to wear any out.
Lloyd
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    [ ... ]

    Which Unimat is this which has a safety cover? I've used the early ones (two models, but the same steel rods for rails) which had the pulleys out in the air -- ready to grab a careless fingertip. :-) Trying to remember those models -- DB-200 and SL-1000 IIRC. Yep -- verified.
    Enjoy,         DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: < snipped-for-privacy@d-and-d.com> | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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wrote:

I have the Unimat 3 which resembles an actual lathe since it has a cast bed with V ways.
--

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada
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On Tuesday, June 28, 2016 at 3:05:22 PM UTC-4, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

I paid $10 for a unimat at a yard sale and a couple of years later sold it for $900 on ebay. Could have knocked me over with a feather, but the guy really wanted it and really paid for it.
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At least it cancels any misconception that metal is infinitely rigid.
At Mitre I acquired a Sherline and a Prazi clone from closed labs (a bad omen). The Prazi was large enough to be useful though I dislike its controls. I couldn't learn to like the Sherline for anything. It fit in a drawer and there it stayed. I can do tiny delicate work in brass better on my 10" South Bend. --jsw
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Not sure why this sort of becoming a pissing contest.
Call it what you whatever you want, but I've been able to make all sorts of useful stuff I wasn't able to before with the small lathe and mill. Hypothetical machinery you don't have really doesn't get the job done.
One guy I know uses pre WWII looking old leather belt driven machines to make parts for export to Germany. It's an eye opener in what can be made with what might be considered (they're real pretty though) laughable tools.
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A Sherline is a good start and AFAIK does what it is meant to. However when you bang up against its limitations it's time to think about a larger machine instead of fighting its inherent weakness.
Unfortunately I don't know of a better currently available hobbyist lathe to step up to. I bought old American iron with its problems of scarcity, wear and abuse. My first lathe, a 6" Sears/AA, was NOT a good choice due to its easily bent 1/2"-20 spindle nose. --jsw
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Cydrome Leader wrote:

I have a 1938 Bridgeport round-ram that I converted to CNC. I make parts that are exported all over, as well as sold domestically. One of my major customers is L. S. Starrett, they use my servo amps in their high-end Force Measurement Systems. I don't even want to KNOW how much they get for those! (The part I make for those servo amps is a mounting bracket, machined 1/8" aluminum, bent and then rigid drill-tapped on the Bridgeport.) The rest of the servo amp is a printed circuit.
Jon
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