Troy Bilt Tiller HH60 engine replacement?

What's a tiller and how does it work?

Congratulations on owning a Harbor Freight Store. Maybe someone can help you determine if it will work.

I'm sorry your shaft is only 3/4 inch and 2 5/16 long. That must make all functions difficult.

Not until you put gas in the tank

Welcome back, stryped. Haven't heard from you since May!

Stryped, Mfgsupply.com says they have a rod for it

Paul

Thanks, I will check into that. I called at least half a dozen people and they said the part was discontinued.

Is this hard to replace? Will i need to replace the rings too?

stryped fired this volley in JEST

Busting a con-rod leaves all sorts of speculation going on about what you'll find inside.

You might end up trashing the whole engine. You might get away with just the rod, wrist pin, and bearings. You WILL need new bearings.

LLoyd

New rod bearings you mean?

stryped fired this volley in news:7a571bf8-6f82- snipped-for-privacy@u29g2000pro.googlegroups.com:

No. New bearings for your car's front wheels.

Better replace the rod bearings in your car, too.

Go back to sleep, Stryped.

LLoyd

Don,t fool around with that old engine pick up an small Honda or equivalent and adapt it to your tiller . You can always find something to adapt the sprocket to tiller drive.

sal

I have to agree with Sal. If you aren't ready to tackle a total rebuild of your old engine - including sleeving the cylinder if the busted off rod made a mess of things inside, and deal with going through the carb, and the ignition (magneto, most likely) and all, get a fresh engine.

But the Harbor Freight ones worry me like any no-name Chiwanese engine, you'll go through all the trouble of adapting it and it blows up three hours later. Honda engines are expensive in comparison, but it'll probably outlive you.

The things to watch for are the output shaft size, of course that can be solved by buying new or reworking the output clutch/pulley/ sprocket to the right size hole.

You also need to match the speed range - there are engines with a

6:1 gear reducer on the output of the engine, but it's rather obvious. They are usually on cement mixers so you only need a small belt drive to the pinion drive gear.

You could go with a small Hatz Diesel, but they usually run slower than the average 3,600 RPM of a small gas.

For generators you need a fairly precise constant-speed governor and a tapered output shaft for direct coupling the generator head, for other uses a plain air-vane governor works to hold it fairly constant once you set a speed.

The way the remote throttle controls hook up have to work with the new engine, and it physically has to fit in the same space including the fuel tank and exhaust system - you can modify them to fit, but now it's getting complicated.

Electric start is great - but now you have to find a place to mount the battery box, and probably fabricate some brackets...

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Keep in mind why the rod broke! My bet is 25 years on a roto tiller the crankshaft rod pin is worn undersize, and the cylinder bore is worn out of spec, as well as valves and guides too. Also the carburetor throttle shaft wears to. If you attempt to rebuild this engine look it over well. Most times they are junk at this point. As far as mounting another engine, my guess is you have the larger rear tine Troy Built tiller, not just any engine will bolt up to this frame because of the drive configuration. You should be able to find an engine without too much trouble though. Here is a 6.5 B&S that should work.

Put the model of your tiller in here and engine that will fit will show up. Greg