Tecumseh starter/engine update

stryped fired this volley in news:4bc394f5- snipped-for-privacy@k41g2000yqn.googlegroups.com:

Of course you do. Go down to any automotive parts supplier and buy a coil of "PlastiGauge" (maybe three, in different sizes). You remove a bearing cap, lay a strip of the plastic cord inside the cap, and clamp it back on.

When you again remove it, you can compare the width of the crushed plastic to the micrometer indices on the card supplied with the PlastiGauge to determine your bearing clearance.

LLoyd

This engine uses no rod bearings I dont think and the rod that was in it disintegrated at the bottom so there is not any "rod cap" left.

stryped fired this volley in news:4f60f945- snipped-for-privacy@j38g2000yqa.googlegroups.com:

So WTF? You're fixing the starter on an engine that YOU couldn't make run on a bet?

If you can't figure out a Bendix, how to you expect to rebuild the engine?

(Oh... I know: You're going to ask us to do it by remote control -- you're the waldo, and we're the hands...)

LLoyd

What do you mean? I have the enigne in my garage. I fixed the starter thanks to you guys help last night. I was hoping all I needed was a connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).

stryped wrote: (...)

If you are *really* bored and need a long term hobby, by all means repair.

If you want to till soil, replace the motor. As Karl said, make an adapter if necessary and git'er done.

--Winston

stryped fired this volley in news:251da396-eadf- snipped-for-privacy@s20g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:

BTW... horse crap. The rod bearings may be "self" bearings, but they're bearings nonetheless.

LLoyd

Buy a small engine repair book. The info I quoted you on carburetors came from the B&S manual, I'm not so wise that I don't need one. I buy a set of the factory manuals with each new car.

A little OT, but often you can negotiate a factory shop manual (or more often manual set these days) into the deal when you buy a new car.

It's sure worth trying in any case.

Erik

On Tue, 02 Dec 2008 10:49:40 -0600, the infamous "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" scrawled the following:

PDFTFT.

-- The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. -- George Bernard Shaw

I wont need to "till soil" until summer but are you sayign this is a waste of time?

By the way, to those who dont believe there are bearings, here is a schematic:

They may be imbedded in the rod, I dont know but I dont see any on here like go in a car enigine.

Larry Jaques fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

yeah... I should know better, Larry.

LLoyd

Various aluminium alloys have been developed over the years which are capable of being fashioned into a conrod and have suitable characteristics to act as a bearing so no bearing shells like you would find in a car. For a non demanding app like the tiller engine the conrod material does the job, it saves money.

I am really struggeling with this one. To buy another engine or rebuild. Cost is a major concern but so is my being able to "tinker" with things. I wont need the tiller until summer, but I plan on having a big garden including a pumpkin patch for the kids.

I found a 6.5 horse Briggs that will bolt up to the old tiller for 235 plus 20 bucks shipping. It does not have electric start though and the throttle is on the engine.

I do like to tinker with things and even went to harbor freight over thanksgiving and bought a cylinder hone and piston ring expander. It was not too much.

Part of me wants to go for it and put a new rod, gasket and rings in the old engine, paint it etc, a large part of me is afraid I would put all that time and effort into it and it will throw a rod after the first hour of using it.

Good, Now clean off all the lube. The units used on small engines are designed to run clean and dry. any lube will attract dust and dirt and cause it to stick.

REAL simple, muriatic acid will dissolve the aluminum off the crank.

However, being this is a Tecumseh H60 I would just toss it and buy a GOOD engine.

Is the HH60 not a good engine?

I'd be fixing it unless I had a spare that was a close fit right at hand. Not rocket science. Buy a replacement rod and piston ass'y and go for it.

stryped fired this volley in news:8c369468- snipped-for-privacy@33g2000yqm.googlegroups.com:

Let's see, now... The guy says, "Scrap it and put on a GOOD motor."

There could be two possibilities --

one, he knows less than you do about engines (not likely), or

two, he knows it's a low-end, bushed-crank piece of pressure-cast crap pot metal that was intended for consumer-grade WallyWorld tools designed to last two seasons in actual use.

Which would you guess?

LLoyd

Except in many cases the dealer doesn't stock them and nor does the parts depot. The manuals are provided by a third party and you need to order them direct from that company - can't remember the name off-hand.

SOME are manufacturer supplied and available from the dealer - and some manufacturer supplied also need to be ordered direcr from the "publications department" - like Ford.

HH means Horizontal Heavy duty (cast iron), a better engine (?) than the H60. The rebuilding instructions are long and complicated, don't guess.