Truck for $500

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The truck is not the greatest, but the price is not bad.

Assuming that it cannot be brought up to running condition, I think that I will take out the diesel engine, it has only 76,000 miles, and sell it separately, take the wheels etc and scrap the rest.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus25449
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Ignoramus25449 fired this volley in news:6Y2dnZyiUMJZr8fNnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Ig,

There is one issue with that particular engine that, even if it exists is not terrible expensive to fix. With that many miles on it, the problem may not have even manifest itself yet.

That engine in a long series of model years had cylinder wall porosity that would allow a small seep of coolant into the cylinders during the intake stroke. It was evidenced by coolant use, white exhaust when extreme, and rapid exhaust valve erosion when extreme.

A LOT of engine shops are set up to bore and sleeve that engine for not much money.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Lloyd, so, you are saying that the engine is not worth that much? Could I get $2k for it?

i
Reply to
Ignoramus25449

Ignoramus25449 fired this volley in news:-vWdnYq5BJDspcfNnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

No, no! That engine is the workhorse motor for trucks in that class, and for some of the older 80s-early90s Ford 350 dualies. Every U-Haul JH truck on the road had one for at least 15 years when I was renting them a lot. It's a great, strong, long-lasting motor.

I'd bet you'd sell it in a couple of days for $2K in running condition.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

This is great! Our plan A would be to see if we can get the truck to just be a good running truck, easily. If that does not work, which is most likely, then we will take out and sell the engine with transmission.

Thanks a lot!

i
Reply to
Ignoramus25449

Truth!

Why not turn it into a wrecker for the rest of your fleet? ;)

-- The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often than not, unconsidered. -- Andre Gide

Reply to
Larry Jaques

It shouldn't cost much or take much time to replace the master and wheel cylinders + brake lines. Then you could get $10k(?) for it. The doors latches might simply need to be lubed to latch correctly.

-- The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often than not, unconsidered. -- Andre Gide

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I hope that we'll never need a wrecker for OUR fleet!!!

i
Reply to
Ignoramus25449

I was thinking of more like getting $4k for it, not 10k. It is pretty rusted.

But I will be happy if I can sell the diesel engine+trans for $2k and scrap the rest for $1k, and sell the wheels for $300.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus25449

That would have allowed you to get your new 18-wheeler home without hiring a driver, wouldn't it?

-- The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often than not, unconsidered. -- Andre Gide

Reply to
Larry Jaques

We have a driver...

i
Reply to
Ignoramus25449

looks to me like the truck sat 1/2 submerged in a river or lake for several years. Perhaps that is why the brake lines are missing. Was someone killed in the truck? Check the VIN with the local police.

Paul

Reply to
Paul Drahn

katrina special?

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

Hopefully, I will get to see the title, then I will know.

Trucks rot in Illinois from all that salt, that may explain why it is so rotten on the bottom. I doubt that it sat in the lake, since the engine still starts. We'll see.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus14899

...NOW.

-- I would be the most content if my children grew up to be the kind of people who think decorating consists mostly of building enough bookshelves. -- Anna Quindlen

Reply to
Larry Jaques

BUT that mileage sounds Real Low for a truck that age. I'd track down the original owners and ask if it's always been run Locally 5 miles out and back, or been Clocked by the dealer - or it just rolled over

100,000 and only has a 5-digit odometer.

The rust in the doors is what worries me - the doors might not latch because the door-posts rusted and the latches or strikes ripped out.

And being an International, finding replacement door posts and replacement complete doors (swap the inner skins and latches over) can be done, but they might cost a bit more than you expect. International has always been good at keeping the pieces available to keep their gear running - they know if it can't be driven you can't earn money with it.

If you want to take the time to root out all the rust and section in repair pieces and paint it, you'll probably get your investment back in resale value. If you take it to a body shop and pay retail, not so much.

It came up as SOLD, was that you?

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)" fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Bruce, he could just scrap it out and get his $500 back!

Lloyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Yes, it was me.

I do not like the idea of any deep repairs. If it cannot be brought up to a decent condition in a couple of days, I will take out the engine and sell that, sell the tires, and scrap the rest for more than what I paid.

The odometer has six digits.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus32233

I would get a lot more than that back.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus32233

Before you decide how "deep" the repairs are, consider that some people won't even try - and they took a severe haircut selling you that truck that cheap.

Tear the seats and floor-mats out and really look at the shape the body is in, and research the availability of repair panels from Navistar before you decide to scrap it. It might not be that bad.

And consider that replacing the sheetmetal in the cab is NOT all that complex - the hard part is drilling out the old welds, and using a MIG Gun to make a row of "puddle welds" to simulate a large Spot Welder.

Unless you actually HAVE a large spot-welder and a set of hand-held tongs for it. Something like:

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you can zap it back together in a big hurry.

The trick is to brace the roof before you try taking out the B Pillar and fix it before moving on to another area.

Measure before and after repairs to make sure nothing sagged - You might even have to jack the roof up a skosh and undo some existing sag if the rust in the pillar was real bad and it was driven...

And do a good job priming and painting.

The brake lines and hoses could also be Dumbth - they took it apart and couldn't get it back together again. Someone that understands air brakes should have no problems with it. Or they tried doing something custom like adding on Trailer Air Brake hookups and got stuck.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)

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