v-up 7018 fillet - stringer more productive than weave?

Probably not what you're asking for but interesting info about strength of Stringer vs Weave.

Hiya.

That's a super-brilliant video. I didn't know of it before. The welder and the lab-guy getting together in that cooperation - stands-out brightly.

Appreciated, and I'd recommend it to anyone else. Speaking as someone who is a trained metallurgist, has worked in a steelworks test-house (same equipment), has done weld tests and research on welds and welding.

I was thinking about that too - the properties. Stringer'ing, everything was exactly as it should be. Should get the properties in the manufacturer's data-sheet. Short-arc and no weave, so weld-pool should always be propertly shielded - chemistry correct and no atmosphere pick-up of anything like nitrogen which would knock-down impact toughness.

Regarding properties of stringer and weave, "Basic" / lime / CaCO3 flux SMAW, typically 7018, should have about the same proportionality as stringer and weave E71T-1 (Rutile FCAW).

Anyway, I should have those properties - and I know what it looks and feels like stringering at 150A with a 4mm (5/32") 7018 rod. I only did it for a day, not realising I was "on the money".

So my main question is - when I get the chance, what should I be developing and what might it be useful for me to know about the practice of welding? eg. what can be a problem and what to do about it, etc.

Regards,

I'm glad you liked the video. I'm not a welder. I bought a tombstone welder for $50 used. I use it to stick two pieces of metal together with metal. A grinder is very useful for me. :-) Mikek

"Tombstone" as in it is massive? Some of these have a really good arc - very sweet characteristic. Need a really good inverter to beat. Probably some "Darwinian selection" on the "tombstone" welding machines left - the best endured the decades and were kept during clearouts, etc.

Is it AC? DC?

One of the best ever for me was in a boatyard where, for outdoor welding, the two SMAW machines were both AC only. One air-colled, one oil-cooled. I found a rectifier in the store. Never seen a stand-alone rectifier before or since. Well, both welding machines put through the rectifier had a fantastic characteristic with 6010's. Could push a 2.5mm (3/32nd-inch) 6010 straight through a 12mm (1/2-inch) plate and have only something like half burned-away when the rod slid onwards. The one where you present an offcut with what looks like a rod shot through it to the rod's midpoint like an insane case of archery.

Enabled me to weld barge / boat superstructures in one pass, seam'ing the 5mm plates. Disconnect the rectified and send AC through to the stinger, raise the current to 200A and "wash" downwards with a big

I sketched - is at bottom of this page

Rich Smith

Occasionally day-dream about how I could make a stand-alone rectifier. Practical advice appreciated. Less and less need now with inverters getting better and better. But no inverter I have yet met will run a 6010 "keyholing".

Rich Smith

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The hardest part may be finding and fabricating heat-resistant electrical insulation that will withstand rough handling. I'd try unperforated FR4 unclad circuit board material rather than the temping PVC pipe. The high current terminals can be brass bolts through the insulation. I've found threaded copper starting motor terminals at a Diesel electrical shop and lathe-turned them into the high current studs I needed for a current measuring shunt.

The housing for it can be a welded cube of angle iron with flat sides, if you don't have equipment to bend sheetmetal. Be sure that at least one side can be closed without access to the interior, i.e. tapped instead of clearance holes for the screws.

My 1st stick set was a cheap 180A buzz box and I was so happy when I bought a 180A Pickhill oil cooled welder as it's virtually silent and

My 1st stick set was a cheap 180A buzz box and I was so happy when I bought a 180A Pickhill oil cooled welder as it's virtually silent and

============================================== The no longer needed 50A buzz box welding transformer I turned into a variable DC power supply has enough inherent self inductance that the rectified output ripple, with 78000uF of capacitance, is only about one volt peak to peak at 20A load current. The self inductance limits the short circuit current when the electrode sticks. A clamp-on ammeter with sufficient range can measure it.

The transformer's 20% duty cycle at 50A translates to about 25A continuous for a transformer winding temperature rise of 50C in 1/2 hour. I made it to fast charge my 24V solar batteries from a generator, and to test power components such as breakers and rectifiers.

The unregulated supply is a good match to this very nice and versatile unit, though it will fast charge a battery without the regulator if watched for overvoltage.

Yes, having bayonet connectors. You can leave the transformer at some remote / fixed location, and run the AC leads to near where you are working. Have the rectifier near you. Then you have 3 options for tuning your welding conditions, without having to return to the transformer:

• DCEP
• DCEN
• AC (disconnect the rectifier entirely) With cellululosic rods, you can penno "like mad" on DCEP, gap-fill on DCEN, and "wash" the welding-side surface with a 6013 running AC. Useful if you are working on floating hulls - don't have to go back to the quay very often to adjust the transformer :-)