Vertical mill horizontal travel limiter stop?

Trip dogs

Bridgeport's manual refers to one of those as a "stop piece".

GWE

Adjustable travel stops.

If they kick out the feed ..they are called ajustable feed stops.

Gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

Do they sell them anywhere?

Which mill? Servo Power feed with the stops on the rod, or?

Gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

It is important to mention that the stops are supposed to stop the MOTOR driving the table, as opposed to activing as a physical obstruction to table's advance. Today's servos won't hesistate to snap such stops if they were allowed to, potentially taking out a chunk of cast iron from the table itselt.

As such, for critical work, good repeatability and accuracy are a must. Better limit switches are > Guys,

It's a Millrite mill with no power feed.

Gunner wrote:

Ok, nice mill. Now why do you need stops?

Gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

I am milling out a part that looks like this:

's 1/2" in thickest place and 12" long made out of annealed O-1 steel It's clamped to the table.

If I had stops it'll be easy to mill back and forth between stops without looking at dial or marks. Another benefit is that I can flip my part and mill other side in the exactly the same place. I am using L shaped plate clamped to the table so I don't have to index and align my part when I flip it.

BTW The part has long thin sections that hangs without any support. It vibrates somewhat when I mill it. Can anyone recommend any clever way to setup for vibration free milling?

Alex,

Are you making a lot of these things?

I'll bet it only vibrates when you are milling out the reverse side? My idea would be to make up a jig that is in inverse of your part, I.E. looks like a mould for one side.

I imagine a jig that on the left side was a hollow to hold the blank, and on the right was a 'mould'. Put one blank in the left, mill the top side. Flip it over, put it in the right hand of the jig, so the top of the partially machined blank is now nestled into the mould. This gives you support. Put another blank in the left hand side. Mill reverse of the 1st blank and top of the 2nd at the same time. You would of course need some sort of clamping dog.

OTOH, can O-1 steel be forged? Looks like an ideal part for some kind of hot working. Depends on your costs analysis really.

Zed

Alex wrote:

clamped to

2 pieces of MDF and carpet tape? --Glenn Lyford

clamped to

Ok, makes sense. As I recall, there may be a t-slot on the front of the table. Simply make use of it and make up some stops.

Ayup..put solid suppots under those sections

Gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

Looks like an integral-design knife :)

When I do mines, I use vice and parallels, as opposed to clamping it to a mill table.

With a design like that, where you don't have to hold .0002 tols, you can mill by eye and ear :) . You will hear distinct change in the sound the endmill makes, when it touches the side of the the guard and/or butt.

Be careful not to have it milled down too much. Especially with O1, sharp angles (stress raisers) and thin sections is asking for trouble during the quench. Make sure NOT to use water or brine, go with slower oil

Air-hardening steels is the way to go. D2 for ultimate :) knife

When removing the stock, reduce it first to say, 10 thou under, via plunging the (centercutting endmill) in "drilling out" motion.

And lastly: bladeforums.com :)

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

clamped to

vibrates somewhat

free milling?