Welding an oil pan on a 3-53 diesel

I have a 3-53 diesel, whose pan was damaged slightly because I dragged
it 8 feet on concrete and that slightly damaged the oil pan. The corer
slightly "folded" and I tink that it caused a crack to develop. There
is a minute crack now, through which oil drippred slowly. To give you
an idea, in about 10 days the bottom pan leaked about two quarts of
oil (which I contained, being a green and environmentally friendly
person).
Anyway, I took the oil pan off today, and cleaned it to the extent
possible, with pretty much no oil remaining on the inside or outside
near the crack.
So, now I have a question of what is the best way to weld it. It is
stamped sheet metal, I would say 16 gauge or so (just guessing). The
crack, or abrasion, is in a corner.
I am thinking, use 1/8" of 6013, at 100 amps, and weld from inside?
Or should I use some fun rod like Nickel 55 or Nickel 99? Cost of rod
is not material, as I have a bucketful of it.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus5997
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I would recommend brazing it rather than welding. You could easily burn holes in it unless you are skilled in welding thin metal. The braze will work fine for that application.
John
Reply to
John
Really? With brazing there is no danger of burnthrough, even if one isn't that careful, and the braze will be leakproof.
Although I suppose that welding steel with nickel rod is probably closer to brazing than to welding. But silver probably has better penetration of the crack.
What is the standard way to repair such cracks? This cannot be the first time the issue has come up in the history of the internal combustion engine.
Joe Gwinn
Reply to
Joseph Gwinn
That'd be my choice too . Cover everything but the area you're brazing with wet cloths to control heat and minimize distortion . A twisted oil pan can be a bitch to get sealed against the block ... -- Snag Learning keeps you young !
Reply to
Snag
Assuming youve the oxy propane/acetylene kit, brazing is the safest way to repair it. you will need obviously the right flux and brazing rod. Dont try to arc weld it.unless youve the tig? kit. Rod and mig is too crude with poor heat imput control.If you dont have the right gas kit get someone to do it for you who has. With brazing your after putting a 1/8in thick layer of brass over the cracked area. with a bit of overlap. do it from the outside.from the inside it will be much more difficult to avoid burning yourself. A skilled brazer will take only 10 mins to fix it. Ive brazed up all sorts of repairs from cast iron to s/steel to ordinary steel. Dont try to gas weld it as on cooling it willshrink then crack. Let us know how you got on. Ted. In Dorset UK.
Reply to
Ted Frater
1/8"?? No, no ... as small as you have - 1/16" if you have it. Weave like crazy to avoid burn through. That is, assuming that you are dead set on welding and won't braze like everyone says. Bob
Reply to
Bob Engelhardt
Joe and Gunner, just for your information, I ended up brazing it with a flux coated brass brazing rod. It my first time I was brazing, and it is truly a great process for filling cracks! I am very impressed, it is like a little miracle.
Thanks guys.
The pan is now filled with water, I will wait a while to see if any water comes out anywhere.
The next question is, is there some way to filter 3 gallons of oil. The old oil ain't so bad looking, just got some dirt and stuff in the pan. Not critical but would be nice to reuse and recycle.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus5997
You have already done the deed but I would suggest that brazing is the only way to go. It flows nicely into the cracks, seals the unit. Welding thin material tends to burn through at the worst or leave an oxidized material with much porosity.
If the oil is relatively clear but has large chunks of crud, simply put a paper towel folded into a cone in a funnel. Or use a piece of a decent quality bed sheet. High quality sheets have thread counts up to 1000/inch (Sears horsepower number, they count multiple strands in one thread). Suggest you ask NICELY from SWMBO for an old sheet, taking it off the bed means you don't get to sleep there.
Reply to
RoyJ
Neither. Acetylene/ Oxygen or Tig is the plan. A/O has the advantage of assisting the correction of the shape first. 100 amps is way too hot. 50-60 amps with Tig is about right. Steve
Reply to
Steve Lusardi
I wouldn't use electricity on it, even if you're good. I'd use an OA process, and someone who is more knowledgeable about it than me will recommend one.
Steve
Reply to
Steve B

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