Welding an oil pan on a 3-53 diesel

Yes, and it was EASY!

Oh, and regarding filtering, I filtered it through a rag.

They come in different meshes?!? I've only seen one mesh on them until now. IDAGS and now find "med" and "fine", too. I thought 100 mesh was the standard.

-- Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary. -- Peter Minard

I filtered through a rag, that was good enough for me, I just wanted to eliminate the crap that accidentally ended up in the plastic oil pan that I put under the engine.

Well, it's definitely a hell of a lot easier than 7018, ain't it? And now you got ways to fix lots of stuff you've been putting off, and new stuff that comes along. Gas welding has lots of uses.

Steve

You must be in a warm part of our planet. It hasn't gotten above freezing here for a week or more now.

Steve, in SW Utah

"Gunner Asch" wrote

Pshaw, you say................

Yeah, it'll be filtered properly before it's circulated in the engine, anyway.

-- Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary. -- Peter Minard

Mother Earth News had an article on making your own oil filtering device back in the 70' or 80's. It used a 60 watt light bulb inside a one gallon can to heat the oil as it travelled through, so it would flow better and, a then a roll on toilet paper as the actual filter media. Oil was poured into a container at the top of the contraption and the flow to the bulb/heater assy. was controlled by a needle valve.

Pete Stanaitis

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Ignoramus5997 wrote:

I love this place! The pan is on the engine, with a new gasket of course, and the oil is back into the pan -- no new oil was needed.

I agree, I have quite a few things that I was putting off, I just need to recall what,,,

It is wel below freezing here, too. But in my trailer it is nice and warm.

Just a humble suggestion. Buy a can of standard white brazing flux and a can of speciality flux for brazing cast iron. I suspect they will last you for many years as you need to use very little and a little goes a long ways. It is not expensive but you need to have it before you think you need it.

IMHE the coated brazing rods do not provide the correct amount of flux and it is impossible to get it where it is needed. When brazing rods get old or wet or dropped the flux will fall off but it is easy to just dip a warm rod in a can of flux and also easy to apply flux directly to the joint before heating and as needed when brazing. The cast flux I have is a dark brown coloured powder and really helps when brazing cast iron. IIRC it is also helpful for other similar work like cast welding.

Old brazing rods with poor flux are often a real bargain and are easy to use effectively if you have the proper flux.

Good Luck, YMMV Happy, Healthy and Rich New Year to all.

If you intend to keep or use this 3-53, you should be aware that GM Diesel specifies simple non-detergent, non-multigrade oils rated as 'low ash', in

Good Luck, YMMV

I generally braze stuff like that.

Perhaps - but getting it oil tight the first time on sheet metal is a LOT easier with brazing.

True, but it would take a whole lot more heat than what is required to repair a small crack in the bottom corner of a 3-53 oil pan to warp it badly enough that the force of the mounting bolts/screws would not pull it back into shape almost effortlessly.

Heat the oil first (like the coffee) and it goes through a whole lot faster too.

Just set a 114 year record in Toronto Ontario at 13 degrees C yesterday.That's over 55F.

I'm about 60 miles from Toronto

We had a white christmas, and a green new years.