Welding Rebar?

I used to use rebar for grates in our maple syrup evaporator. I just used

6013 in my stick buzz box because that's what I had. the welds stuck okay, but, of course, the rebar just corroded away and didn't even last for a whole season. Anyway, I have heard that rebar comes in many alloys. I doubt that is it ever REAL high in carbon content, but some of it does harden up pretty good. Us blacksmiths (or blacksmith wanna-bees) sometimes use it for chisels and punches). I'm thinking that 7018 wire would probably do a pretty good job on most kinds of rebar. But----- I always have a few dozen sticks of "Super Missile Weld" (Welco?) around. I use it whenever I have some ferrous metals that I am not sure about. It always seems to work, but not cheap. I think it's a stainless steel alloy of some sort.

Pete Stanaitis

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Some...some rebar can be welded. There are about 15 different alloys of the stuff. From utter crap suitable only for burial in concrete to hide it..to some pretty decent weldable material

I cant tell which is which from looking at it. So I tend to braze it..which Usually..usually works. Mostly. Kinda Sorta. Sometimes

I think you would be better off with using plain jane black pipe however.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

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6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

About like working with bed frame "steel" They just toss in whatever happens to be in the scrap pile. Form it then test it to determine which alloy it comes close to. The only way to know what you really have would be to spec out an alloy and have it run.

There's a discussion here:

It doesn't look like a good idea because of the chances of getting high carbon steel and embrittled welds. Without knowing the carbon content of the material, I'd probably test all the joints with a hammer (impact) and proceed with caution.

The only way to know *in advance* would be to spec it out. You can test it after the fact with various stuff from

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Commuting to a job several years ago, I crossed over a bridge daily that was in the process of being reconstructed. There was a lot of rebar being welded, but I assume that they were using something more fully spec'd than the stuff from Home Depot.

Remember home rebar is junk metal from China. It doesn't have a spec.

Rebar for bridges and high rises runways and such are specified steel and welds well like steel.

It is just like cast iron pipe and flanges. Some weld with Nickel just fine. The Chinese versions seem like they are full of air and flatten out over a wide area.

Mart> >>

after the fact with various stuff from

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"Consumer Grade" Rebar is a total crapshoot as to it's composition and weldability - it's literally melted down scrap that only has to meet real loose specs, and often has half-melted ball bearings and bits of carbide and stellite from valve seats and busted up scrap cars...

Get new small round bar or angle iron to weld up your shelves, and you'll have a chance of making something that can last.

You can get Good Rebar that holds to the same metal composition guarantees as bar stock and will weld nicely, but you'll pay as much if not more for it than new bar stock. If you really don't need the formed in bumps to hold the concrete, just get the plain bar stock.

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Bought some real steel for that project, the guy at lowes told me that the rebar they sell is weldable. I checked lowes website, website say thier rebar is not weldable.

Best Regards Tom.

I'd believe the website, rather than the guy who says "fries with that?".

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Bought some real steel for that project, the guy at lowes told me that the rebar they sell is weldable. I checked lowes website, website say thier rebar is not weldable.

Best Regards Tom.