I think kiln wash will work in place of whiting but you should double check that. Here's a whiting source:
Greetings Grant, If you don't already have the tin I think you can still get it from an auto body supply. Be sure it's marked pure of course. You don't need to strip the whole bowl. At least when I've tinned stuff I was able to do small areas adjacent to already tinned areas. After cleaning real well regular paste solder flux should work fine. The rag can also be fluxed for wiping the tin. I have done this. I have heard that lard can also be used on the rag but I don't know. Try heating locally instead of the whole thing. Develop your technique with a piece of thin steel sheet. Cheers, Eric
The traditional way to apply tin is to melt it on, but it can also be applied by electroplating. Electroplating may not be a preferred commercial process because of the time it takes, but it might be the best approach for a "one-off" for one who lacks the skill of hot tinning and isn't motivated to invest the time & materials to learn. If I did me sums right, a .001" thick plate would be about an "8 pound" job -- 112 10"x14" sheets plated both sides to .001" would have about 8.2 lb of tin.
Electroplating tin is easy to do. It builds at a rate of about .0001" per ten minutes. Materials and good instructions are available from
================= Don't confuse terne plate [solder] with tim [an element].
In cooking tin plate can be a help to produce very light whipped egg whites marangue as the tin reacts [very slightly] with the egg white protean.
Tin lined cookware is still widely sold but you must be careful not to overheat the pots/pans if you cook in them as opposed to beating eggwhites.
I dunno, but over exposure to dihydrogen monoxide kills more people in this country every year than lots of things the extremists want to control or ban.
Highly banned? I have several rolls of lead alloy solder out in the shop. Most recent one was purchased just a year or two ago. I use it regularly for some types of electrical repairs and connections.
[snip bunch]
Two sides of 112 ea. 10"x14" sheets is about 217.8 square feet, which is several times the surface area of a 30"-wide pot that is 24" deep.
2*pi*(30*24 + 15^2)/144 = 41.2 square feet.I don't have the post at hand where Grant gave the pot size, but seem to recall it being referred to as 30" x 24". If that's depth x width rather than vice versa, 2*pi*(24*30 + 12^2)/144 = 37.7 sq. ft.
-jiw
I see that Grant's most recent post says 15x15x15", which I'm not sure how to interpret. But if he means a round open-top pot that's
15" across and 15" deep, the surface area is ~ 12.3 sq. ft. from calculation d=15; h=15; 2*pi*(d*h + (d/2)^2)/144.-jiw
My reference didn't relate to Grant's pot, but to tin terminology as:
"The standard of measuring of tin coating thickness on the sheet has not changed in the last few hundred years. Tin coating is referred to as "pounds per base box". A base box refers to 112 sheets of tinplate measuring a nominal 10" x 14". Taking that amount of square footage (both sides), an amount of tin is used to cover the sheets. Coverage can range all the way down to 1/8 of a pound."
This site sez "industrial restaurant equipment" might have coatings of
8 to 20 lb, which I figure to be .001" to .0025". These thickness are certainly achievable with electroplating, though it might take a couple of hours.
Bought some about a month ago at the local hardware store, about a week before I got about three pounds for a buck one Saturday morning. Gerry :-)} London, Canada
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I've only heard that for copper bowls. Karl
Really?
Say John..whats the composition of fillings these days?
Since WHEN???? It's on my periodic chart of the ELEMENTS. Symbol Sn ...lew...
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