What's your favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?

The other day, a guy asked me how to remove stuck bolts. It was a general question; he didn't have a specific problem at that moment.
As I started to answer him, I kept having to backtrack, explaining that a particular situation begets a particular range of solutions.
That got me to thinking about how pervasive this problem is to modern man and how uncomfortable I am when I have to go about it.
So, I put up a webpage that focuses on simply defining the problem:
http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html
Right now I am in the process of reviving an old Onan 6.5KW RV-style generator set and it has numerous stuck bolts. Some of them are steel bolts, about 1/4-20 in size, stuck into aluminum. There is lots of rust. In my googling around I have found references to "Bolt Extractor Sockets". Have any of you folks tried them and what have your experiences been?
And, what is YOUR favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?
Pete Stanaitis
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PB Blaster. If that don't work, go to plan B. Let it sit for 24 hours, and apply more than once if it looks like it evaporated off.
Steve
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Steve B wrote:

Kroil, soak time and heat.
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I'd second above - apply and let soak, repeat for several days, wiggling bolts each time - brush away loose rust, etc each time.
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Plus then an Impact Driver. I like to shim it enough that the blow also hits the head of the bolt down, just not in a twisting motion.
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On Sat, 19 Dec 2009 11:49:13 -0800, the infamous "Bill McKee"

Yeah, impact driver to start with, plus Loosener's Castor Oil Flakes and soak time.
-- This episode raises disturbing questions about scientific standards, at least in highly political areas such as global warming. Still, it's remarkable to see how quickly corrective information can now spread. After years of ignored freedom-of-information requests and stonewalling, all it took was disclosure to change the debate. Even the most influential scientists must prove their case in the court of public opiniona court that, thanks to the Web, is one where eventually all views get a hearing. --Gordon Crovitz, WSJ 12/9/09
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Larry Jaques wrote:

"The All Weather Breakfast! Loosners's!"
David
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On Sat, 19 Dec 2009 11:45:42 -0800, "Bill Noble"

Smack it lightly on the head with a light hammer every couple hours when soaking. Breaks up the rust crystals and gets the penetrant down where it does some good.
In steel I like to just heat the bolt red hot, and then quench it a couple times, then heat and let cool while melting a wax candle on it.Tapping it with a hammer a few times helps at this point.
Usually brings them out . If all else fails, use the "blue point stud extractor" very carefully to burn the bolt out of the hole.
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I have heard a couple of referances to "Kroil "& "PBlaster " in this thread, but to the ebst of my knowledge, neither are available in Australia. What are they made of? I've used a mixture of diesel fuel and automatic transmission oil a few times and it seems to work reasonably well. I have a 1900's steam pump restoration comming up shortly and I will need all the help I can get. It's been sitting in th shop now for about 6 months and I give all the threads a squirt of Lanoliptus whenever I think of it. (Lanoliptus is a mixture of eucalyptus and lanolin in a pressure pack) I'm expecting that at minimum, a lot of heat and bad language will be required to get any of those rusty old bolts out. I'll be using all the hints from the website as well

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On Sun, 20 Dec 2009 17:14:53 +1100, "Grumpy"

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?tB8473
While described as bore cleaners, ed's red is also a very good penetrating oil. http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/695270-penetrating-oil-test.html Acetone/ATF seems to be the winner
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t4427
Kroil website indicates Austrailian distribution http://www.thomasnet.com/profile/874557/kano-laboratories-inc.html
Unka George (George McDuffee) .............................. The past is a foreign country; they do things differently there. L. P. Hartley (1895-1972), British author. The Go-Between, Prologue (1953).
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Ask around at your fixit shops or parts supplier. I'm sure they have an equivalent.
Steve
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Grumpy wrote:

My old time favourite is Penetrene , but it's near impossible to find here in Oz now. I still have a couple of litres left and I use it sparingly now.
--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."
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G'day Bluey Penetrene is as rare as rocking horse manure these days as well. I think I'll try some of the ATF /varsol/ acetone mixtures and see what happens. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

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Grumpy wrote:

.
Seems Penetrene is still available here in Oz . Idid aGoogle search ansd all I could find was a horse linament of the same name . Then I found this
http://www2.totalfasteners.com.au They stock it in 500ml , 1 ltr bottles , 400ml aerosol and 5 liter cans .,they even say they can supply 200litre drums.

--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."
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Do you have natural gas in Australia? I worked in a heat treating plant years ago and we used a lot of natural gas for the furnaces. Each furnace's feeder pipe had a drip leg to catch condensation before the gas went into the valves. These drip legs are even put on residential furnaces, by the way. Anyhow, since we used a LOT of gas, each drip leg had a drain cock and it was the job of the maintenance crew to empty these drip legs on a regular basis. They saved that condensate and used it as we use PB Blaster, etc. It smelled a lot like PB Blaster. They swore by it.
Pete Stanaitis ----------------------------
Grumpy wrote:

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Way back when I was kid, a neighbor who was one of those old time, life long 'real' mechanics of years past told me the original Liquid Wrench was condensate drained from New York's gas street light plumbing system.
He said when it first hit the market it worked well enough, but reeked bad enough to gag a buzzard on sight. Supposedly, it was some while before they de-stenched to tolerable levels.
Also remember him saying it was a God send to steam locomotive and marine techs.
Erik
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wrote:

The old liquid wrench did work well! I used to use it in the 60s on my old English cars, and my collection of vintage vehicles. When they changed the formula it was no where near as good.
Steve R.
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According to this:
http://www.ssaa.org.au/stories/hints-tips-how-to-clean-a-firearm.html
you may be able to get Kroil from a shooting supply place. It's very popular for cleaning bench rest rifles. They also mention Penetrene, which is the local equivalent.
Or you can contact Kano Labs directly & see if they have a distributor in Australia.
Doug White
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wrote:

SNIP
Hey Grumpy,
I have never seen Kroil here locally, but we can get PBblaster in a spray-bomb. Big bucks.
Anyway, I was happy recently with a concoction noted here on RCM, a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Worked for me on a 1/2" socket head cap screw that was rusted in over it's 2" threaded length. Someone else had actually broken the side out of the head in a previous attempt. Soaked it for a couple of days in the mix, and used no heat.
I've made up a bottle full for future use, with a "mixture label" on it so I won't forget.
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.
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On Sun, 20 Dec 2009 20:12:18 -0500, Brian Lawson

I buy PB Blaster at Walmart in Port Huron, MI $3.79/spray can. Gerry :-)} London, Canada
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