HI group, I have a pellet stove wherein I have repaired the fire grate annually. Att= ached is a photo link of the grate.
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Purchasing a new grate is to be avoided ($100 +). My last repair used heav= y nails for the grate elements. Obviously they burn right through. All co= mments on what type of metal I should be using would be appreciated. Said = metal should be easily obtainable. Metal diameter from 3/16" to 1/4" shoul= d work well.
Could I cut stainless pieces from refrigeration grates or oven grates?
nails for the grate elements. Obviously they burn right through. All comments on what type of metal I should be using would be appreciated. Said metal should be easily obtainable. Metal diameter from 3/16" to 1/4" should work well.
That looks like the fire grate in the Kozi Bay Window pellet stove I bought for our rental house about three years ago. It has been about the only source of heat during that time.
I am sure the renters have cleaned the grate/stove, but I cleaned it for the first time last month. The grate looked almost as good as new! I don't know about the quality of pellets being used, but the cheapest locally are made right in Redmond, OR. So I suspect that is what they used and what was in the stove when I cleaned it.
The house is at 3,000 ft, the limit for normal use of the pellet stove and the air feed is taken right from the house air. Built in 1927!
So, I wonder what is causing your burn out problem? Do you run with the draft wide open? Have you written to the company in Canada that built the stove? And, do you have the manual showing the proper adjustment and cleaning of the stove?
A renter took the manual and never returned it, so I went to their web site to download a copy. Wouldn't work. Emailed the company for a copy - PDF- and it was here the next morning.
Sorry, I don't know what the box and grate are made of.
nails for the grate elements. Obviously they burn right through. All comments on what type of metal I should be using would be appreciated. Said metal should be easily obtainable. Metal diameter from 3/16" to 1/4" should work well.
That looks like the fire grate in the Kozi Bay Window pellet stove I bought for our rental house about three years ago. It has been about the only source of heat during that time.
I am sure the renters have cleaned the grate/stove, but I cleaned it for the first time last month. The grate looked almost as good as new! I don't know about the quality of pellets being used, but the cheapest locally are made right in Redmond, OR. So I suspect that is what they used and what was in the stove when I cleaned it.
The house is at 3,000 ft, the limit for normal use of the pellet stove and the air feed is taken right from the house air. Built in 1927!
So, I wonder what is causing your burn out problem? Do you run with the draft wide open? Have you written to the company in Canada that built the stove? And, do you have the manual showing the proper adjustment and cleaning of the stove?
A renter took the manual and never returned it, so I went to their web site to download a copy. Wouldn't work. Emailed the company for a copy - PDF- and it was here the next morning.
Sorry, I don't know what the box and grate are made of.
heavy nails for the grate elements. =A0Obviously they burn right through. = =A0All comments on what type of metal I should be using would be appreciate= d. =A0Said metal should be easily obtainable. =A0Metal diameter from 3/16" = to 1/4" should work well.
I'd try stainless steel but don't really know. I'm pretty sure those grates are plated steel. Karl
nails for the grate elements. Obviously they burn right through. All comments on what type of metal I should be using would be appreciated. Said metal should be easily obtainable. Metal diameter from 3/16" to 1/4" should work well.
That or maybe 316 stainless deck nails?
That's illegal or frowned upon in post parts these days. All new stoves have to have an external air source. Yours is probably grandfathered in.
-- ...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work. -- John Ruskin
I decided to take the easy way out and use the same fix as last time. (20d nails). Due to comments I will read the stove manual and adjust the flame, possibly obviating another 'burnout' of the grate.
That grate shouldn't get very hot in use. Not even close to red hot. The combustion air blows up through it and keeps it from getting hot. I would check your combustion air and make sure that pellets cannot fall through the grate until they are burned down all the way.
Most of the ones I have seen were made of stainless steel.
nails for the grate elements. Obviously they burn right through. All comments on what type of metal I should be using would be appreciated. Said metal should be easily obtainable. Metal diameter from 3/16" to 1/4" should work well.
What does the factory grate look like it's made from? I'll guarantee you that the factory cross-bars are a better class of steel than common nails.
If the side rails and ends of that "firebox bucket" structure is regular steel, I'd just get 1/8" or 3/16" hot-rolled steel bar stock and set the cut-off saw 1/2" wider than the bucket - use MIG or Arc tack welds to hold the bars in, and you can pop them out with a quick shot of a grinder.
If you pre-order it cut off, you could get Stainless rod stock, and do the same weld trick to fasten it in.
Like someone said, check the draft and the flue for obstructions - the incoming air is supposed to keep those rods from burning through. You might even have to put a forced draft blower on the unit to make sure it's getting enough combustion air flow.
And check that the stoker mechanism is keeping the fuel bed on the fire grate deep enough to block the heat going down - the fuel in contact with the grate shouldn't be on active fire, if anything it should be the finished off ashes that are pretty much out and about to fall through anyway.
Only reason the grates on a coal burning locomotive or boiler last for more than a few days - the incoming air keeps the grates from getting to the glowing-hot point, and then the water inside the boiler does the same thing to protect the steel lining of the firebox, and the fire tubes headed for the flue.
You want to see how that works,light a nice fire in the boiler and let the water level get below the top of the Crown Sheet - and I'm gonna go stand about a quarter mile over ---> that-a-way...
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