Some friendly member of this newsgroup suggested that I seek out help onwhat the standard practice would be in situations, so I am making a newpost, with some clear pictures I took in my garage. Hopefully, this willproperly address the issue.This is a motorcycle steering/suspension related question. This is theoriginal "upper triple clamp" hereafter referred to as "clamp": is a steel "steering stem" that passes through the hole in the middle.That hole's inner diameter is .924". I want to replace that clamp with thisclamp: clamp has a stem hole with an inner diameter of .984". Below is a linkto a picture of the steering stem passing through the new clamp's stem hole. hope the picture reveals the amount of distance that is "extra".In summary, I want to replace the original clamp with a new clamp whose IDis .060" larger. When the original clamp is placed on the steering stem,there is a large nut below it holding down a bearing. The clamp will not godown any further. Above the clamp, there is a washer and nut 25mm ID),which is tightened to 40 - 50 ft-lbs of torque, preventing it from goingupward. When properly fit, the original clamp and stem have a snug fit, butit can be rotated on the stem before the top nut is put on. It is not apress on fit and requires only light hand force to set it down on the stem.When the new clamp is put on the stem, due to the .060" gap, it rattlesaround with play. I am wanting it to fit as the original clamp and stem fittogether.What would be the standard, accepted procedure to solve this problem.Thank you very much in advance for your help! I sincerely appreciate it.

Your original sleeving idea seemed plausible, it was just the methodsof making the sleeve that were problematic.If you can dispense with the stays in place when disassembledrequirement, it shouldn't be too hard, using either a lathe turnedsleeve or one made from slit tubing, possible locktited in place toincrease the chances of it staying in the bore when dissasembled.Oh, it occurs to me you said you had a shop press... if you can get amandrel the desired ID of the sleeve, you could actually shrink 1" ODbrass or aluminum tubing of suitable wall thickness to fit the slightlysmaller OD. You'd need to make a chamfered hole in something a bitsmaller than the intended OD, anneal just the very end of a piece oftubing, and drive it into that with a big mallet to shrink the end.Then anneal the several inches of tube, cut it off, grease the insideof the tube, and put it over the mandrel. Use the press to push thisinto the bore of the part clamp and partway out the other side. Removemandrel...

What Would Be the Standard Practice in This Situation?

What Would Be the Standard Practice in This Situation? - 1

Nov 10, 2005 64 Replies

Rate this thread:

JWho 20 years ago

OK, just for you, :-) I checked on something, but want to be sure. Is "castor" degrees the same as rake degrees?

Thanks.

Vote

snarl 20 years ago

Nope. Rake is th' number of degrees as measured between th' angle between th' steering neck (on yer bike) to a vertical line down through th' axle. An example of a zero rake application would be a shopping cart wheel.

Your welcome ; )

Snarl

Vote

JWho 20 years ago

So what's castor?

Vote

snarl 20 years ago

S*it, I read that as *camber* for some reason. Both (camber and castor) are typically automotive terms that I don't usually deal with. But yes, rake and castor are measured in a similar manner but on different vehicles.

So if you talk rake to an automotive guy, he'll give you th' same blank stare as a motorcycle frame guy when asked about castor .

Snarl

Vote

Clif Holland 20 years ago

Castor is that nasty stuff momma stuffs down your throat. Caster is the angle.

I just couldn't resist.

Vote

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required