Work table height

Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made from

2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin' today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so forth. By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger one for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even more stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder or vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have that in short supply. At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool if I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm about six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more slop, which I despise.
Reply to
carl mciver
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I have found tall welding tables preferable: 36" or even higher. Much easier on the back. Very easy to kluge a stool to suit that height. Or a platform for shorter people. Can store lots of stuff underneath.

Did the same thing w/ a lathe--possibly the highest lathe you ever seen. But it's great. Have a crude adjustable platform for others to use.

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

It's much more stable to sit while welding, if the project allows it. I have a machine stand I built from a VW engine stand. It has a 1/2" ply top with 1/4-20 blind nuts installed in the bottom for mounting various tools. It can mount my 4x6 belt sander, 8" bandsaw, 6 or 8" grinder or

7" compound miter saw. About 28" high. Very handy. JR Dweller > Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made from
Reply to
JR North

Funny, I was just thinking of building a square pylon bolted to a truck wheel, with the top crossdrilled to accept a standard mount, which could hold a big vise, an arbor press, a bandsaw blade welder, or anything else I thought of. I like the idea of building two of them so you can mount a table. I have for many years had a very simple welding table which consists of a 30x30x3/8" steel plate sitting on an old 55 gallon drum. I have made dozens of projects on it. Many times I clamp on a sawed off piece of 10" I-beam to raise the height of the table to make it easier on my back. Since I only do stick welding, I don't think much of sitting since I don't want sparks going into my lap. I suppose I could weld in my blacksmith's apron (long) and try that sitting down.

Anyway, my next generation welding table concept was going to be height adjustable. It's one thing if you're making something fairly 2-dimensional, like a frame of angle iron, but if you are making a 2' box you want to be able to weld on the top of it.

GWE

carl mciver wrote:

Reply to
Grant Erwin

I have to raise my SB 10L. I am not tall by any means, but a few hours working at the lathe gives me a good deal of neck strain.

Reply to
ATP*

I would build it to stand up at unless you are going to TIG. And build your component elements at the same heights so that you can lay a long piece on your table, and have it the same height as say your drill press table.

Engineer for the most unimaginable thing in the world, and you will cover most things.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

If you think about it, the ideal height must be a few inches below your elbows, whether you are seated or standing, for most operations on a workbench.

Leon

Reply to
Leon Heller

Tig, mig or stick? And what sort of welding will you be doing? It makes a difference. I sit at my tig table. My 4x8 MIG/Stick table is elevated to standing comfort height. About mid thigh level for me. I can bend over and around my work comfortably and still use a stool if need be.

Mid thigh height to crotch level (will be different for everyone) works the best for me..but Ive had two back surgeries and am not the most limber fella anymore.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child - miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

Reply to
Gunner

| Tig, mig or stick? And what sort of welding will you be doing? It | makes a difference. I sit at my tig table. My 4x8 MIG/Stick table is | elevated to standing comfort height. About mid thigh level for me. | I can bend over and around my work comfortably and still use a stool | if need be. | | Mid thigh height to crotch level (will be different for everyone) | works the best for me..but Ive had two back surgeries and am not the | most limber fella anymore. | | Gunner

I'll be doing stick and OA.

Being kinda tall has always been tough when it comes to work surfaces for me because while I'm so used to the standard made for shorter people, it's not too often I get to figure out what would work best for me. When I learned to weld, the fellow who taught me had a tall table and we both leaned over on the table, using our elbows for stability, but for right now my elbow isn't such a wonderful idea as my back doesn't like extended times being bent over and my shoulder for the next several months will not tolerate any weight, and I plan on getting a lot of welding practice while it heals. I'd really like to have some degree of adjustability without making things sloppy, but I'm using square tubing and the fit isn't perfect. The amount of slip fit determines a lot, so if anyone has a good figure to work with, I'd appreciate knowing it.

Reply to
carl mciver

Actually a very interesting observation!

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

Why not make the legs temporarily telescoping, so's you can experiment over a month or two? When you've settled on a height, jest weld the shit out of the telescoping member, for rigidity. Or just redo the legs, if you must. Or, keep it telescoping, and just make really good locks, mebbe set screws for rattle, and thru-pins for strength. But I think you'll like higher better than lower. The "elbow suggestion" seems to me to be a really good, uh, benchmark. :)

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

My welding table uses round pipe and has clamps to take care of the slop. The clamps are holes in the outer pipe with a nut welded to add threads. And then a bolt with a bar welded to it to make it into a wing bolt. With square tubing you will either need two clamps or put the hole on the corner so it locks in two directions.

The last wing bolt I made was done with silver solder. I ground and filed a groove in the head that fitted the rod and gave the silver solder a fairly large area of close contact.. Silver solder would work well in securing a nut to the flat side of square tubing. I did have to use two propane hand torches to get enough heat. Might have be able to use just one and some insulating firebrick to capture the heat.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

My welding table was purchased from an estate sale, and I simply stuck

2x4s under the feet until it was a comfortable height, based on welding a number of projects.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child - miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

Reply to
Gunner

Ah, very good idea. The thru pins I will be using a lot elsewhere, but a set screw in conjunction sounds excellent. Welding a nut on the outside for a set screw is a great idea, but that reminds me of the question that came up the other day: Concerning welding nuts on, what is the best way to get it square, not cook off the threads or otherwise damage the nut, and get it exactly where you need it to be? Working with stick here. Last time I did one with a torch it turned out to be a royal PITA.

Reply to
carl mciver

Well, try to avoid 1/4-20! :) Also they make, I believe, "welding nuts", w/ more meat on the outside. But, a 3/8 nut should give you no trouble.

Ahm no 'spert, but I just spring or c-clamp it in place, use a thin rod,

3/32 at 70-100 A (I think), and weld away, starting on the hex corners. Don't need a solid weld all around, just 3 or so solid spots. Actually, watch out you don't burn thru the tube wall, as well. Practice on scrap a little. Oh, big tip: On small nuts in particular, weld them w/ a screw threaded in, for heat disipation/warpage. On 3/8, may not be so critical, but couldn't hurt, f'sure.

I've done this successfully w/ 1/4-20.

You may wind up w/ a welding table up around yer chin!! :) I really became surprised at how high I like tables and tools.

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

Oh yeah, w/ the clamps, you may have to tack real lite in two places, then remove the clamps to get decent welds, iffin you don't want to bugger yer clamps.

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

I use mild steel square nuts without a finish. They are often greasy and need to be cleaned. I am usually attaching to an angle leg or a piece of square tube. Use flat bar the same size as the angle or tube, drill it out to fit the bolt, and then chop off a nice square piece with the hole in the middle. This forms the base of the leg.

For jigging, I run a bolt with another nut on the back through the hole and screw the nut to be welded on. the first nut can then jamb everything tight once the nut to be welded is positioned where you want it. That way everything stays put while you weld. When you're done, just loosen the first nut and thread the bolt out. Reuse on the next piece.

The square complete with nut then gets welded to the bottom of your leg.

The square nuts are nice and meaty. They are flat on one side and sort of rounded over on the other. The rounded side goes against the square piece with the hole in it. This gives the equivalent of a V-groove to weld.

1/4-20 nuts welded to a washer for 3/4" round tubing are quite challenging. You have to make sure the weld doesn't interfere with the leg--otherwise you have to grind to fit.

Hopefully this is clear.

Jeff Dantzler

Reply to
Jeff Dantzler

I like Jeff's idea of using a bolt to hold the nut in place. Silver solder is still a nice way to secure them. If you are using stick, you could get a carbon electrode and use it to do the heating. Harder to see with that than using a propane torch, but it ought to be very quick.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

Gunner,

Ahm laughin over here, w/ you welding on a table at thigh-height... :) :) I guess iffin yer shimmin it w/ 2x4s, it musta started out at *knee* height! Mebbe yer usin like *really long* welding rod??

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

Im 6' 3" tall. A bunch of it is in my legs.

A 2x4 is 1.5" x 3.5". Shimming it up to the height most comfortable to me ultimately involved installing a 4x4 (3.75" x 3.75") and a

2x4...under each leg. A distance of 5.25" Which wound up being just about crotch high for me.

My wife, who is 5'2", can stand in front of it and just about rest her elbows on it.

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

Reply to
Gunner

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