Would you?

I have an Albrecht keyless chuck for the tailstock of my SB heavy 10" lathe.
It's a Morse #2 taper, and it has a tang on the narrow end. The tang
doesn't allow the tailstock ram to be retracted completely. Should I cut it
off? What would you guys do?
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Get another arbor without the tang, then you have versatility. Gerry :-)} London, Canada
Reply to
Gerald Miller
Would this be the same tang that is required to be able to eject the shank from the tailstock?
What would I do? Heck, it's yours! I'd cut it off! :-)
On mine, I'd leave it.
Cheers Trevor Jones
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Trevor Jones
Trevor, you're such a card. I never know when you're joking....;)
Actually, Noknokman, I think if you cut it off you won't be able to extract it as Trevor says. In fact, I am having difficulty recalling any chuck or similar tool that will allow you to "fully retract" the tail stock without the toll falling out. I think that's on purpose. (Don't ask me why they mark the tailstock length in the "unusable"area. Maybe someone else with more experience can tell you that.
Reply to
Kelly Jones
I've run a Monarch on which you must use a drift in order to remove whatever's inserted in the taper, retracting it all the way does nothing. It's a little aggravating. I'd rather just retract it to extract the drill or whatever I'm using.
Kelly J> > NokNokMan wrote:
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According to NokNokMan :
Leave it. This is normal.
That tang hitting the leadscrew for the ram is what ejects the arbor easily. Without it, you would have serious problems getting the chuck and arbor out. I wound up getting one interchangeable point live center which just had a threaded hole, and I had to make something to screw into that to hit the leadscrew so I could eject the arbor.
Some tailstock rams have a slot through which will allow a drill key to eject it, but many have sold sides.
You presumably will be wanting to put other things in there from time to time -- live centers, MT shanked drill bits, and other things which you may also have. *all* of them should hit the end of the leadscrew before the ram gets all the way back -- for the very purpose of ejecting them.
Good Luck, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
========================= Generally that is how you get a drill arbor, live/dead center, etc. out of the tailstock. I would think about how I am going to get it out if I cut the tang off.
Unka George (George McDuffee)
...and at the end of the fight is a tombstone white with the name of the late deceased, and the epitaph drear: ?A Fool lies here, who tried to hustle the East.?
Rudyard Kipling The Naulahka, ch. 5, heading (1892).
Reply to
F. George McDuffee
The problem is that the first three graduations (10ths) on the ram are now useless. If I retract any further than the third, the chuck falls out.
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That's the way the Jacobs tailstock chuck on my SB9 has been for years. I am used to it. You could cut 0.3" off, though, and it might still eject.
Reply to
Grant Erwin
Scales on a machine are generally used for "relative" measurements, not absolutes. If, for example, you want to drill a hole 1" deep with your lathe and the bit contacts the work at the 1.5 inch mark, just crank it in until it reads 2.5 inchs. Never mind where the scale starts...
I've lived with my lathe for several years and have drilled a lot of holes with it. But, without going out to the shop and trying it, I couldn't tell you where on the scale it spits the drill chuck out. I think it is something a little less than a half an inch. It simply has never occured to me to pay any attention...
Actually, I have a 1/2" and a 1/4 inch chuck as well as a drawer full of MT bits. And I assume that most of them get spit out at different places...
Reply to
Jerry Foster
I had the same issue with my Albrecht chuck in a Jet lathe tailstock. I cut it off. It was not a problem and I now am able to use the full extension of the tailstock. It also ejects correctly. Cut a little bit off at a time until the chuck ejects just past the zero point on your scale.
Reply to
Ive several live centers and whatnot without that tang..and I curse each and every one of them everytime I have to dig out the pickle fork to get em out of the tailstock
"If I'm going to reach out to the the Democrats then I need a third hand.There's no way I'm letting go of my wallet or my gun while they're around."
"Democrat. In the dictionary it's right after demobilize and right before demode` (out of fashion). -Buddy Jordan 2001
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Yes? I usually start the tailstock of my HLV-H (Hardinge tool room lathe..gloat) or the Hardinge TFB (gloat) at the 1" mark, just for this reason.
Or you can make up a pickle fork type of thingy and pry/hammer the tangless taper out of the tailstock ram..and be DAMNED careful you dont ding the end of the ram while doing this.
"If I'm going to reach out to the the Democrats then I need a third hand.There's no way I'm letting go of my wallet or my gun while they're around."
"Democrat. In the dictionary it's right after demobilize and right before demode` (out of fashion). -Buddy Jordan 2001
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I have a variety of MT taper stuff both ways. If this is an expensive chuck or a size you ONLY use on the lathe tail-stock, then just cut it off nice and square with a hacksaw (it's relatively soft) at a length that gives proper ejection. If you also use it in say a drill press where it needs to be "NokNok"ed out, then what I did was cut off the tang, and thread the fresh end of the MT arbour 3/8-16 about 1/2 inch deep. Screw in a stump piece of sacrificial brass, and use it in place for the drill-press for knock-out, and remove it for use in the lathe.
I know you have been around RCM for a while, but one thing I do suggest is that you don't do anything in too big a hurry until you see what you can pick up at garage sales and auctions or Ebay or where-ever. 20 years ago, I only had one chuck that size, and now I have maybe 15 kicking around, so what I would do may well be different than your circumstances.
Take care.
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.
Reply to
Brian Lawson
Mine has a similar " problem ", it does not lock in until the 6mm or 1/4 inch mark with the chuck I use for drilling to depth.
I just use 10 mm or 1 inch ( depending on what I am using ) as a starting reference and add 10mm or1 inch - 25 mm depth = 35 mm on the scale / 1 5/16 " depth = 2 5/16 " on the scale. Simple solution. Alan, in beautiful Golden Bay, Western Oz. VK6 YAB VKS 737 - W 617
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DO NOT REMOVE THE TANG!!! You'll never get the drill chuck out of the tail stock if you do. The chuck is supposed to come out of the tail stock when fully retracted. That's the only way to get the chuck (or morse taper drill, or tapping head, or ...) out of the tail stock since you can't get in from the other end and tap it like you can the head stock. The tail stock ram of a heavy 10" extends at least 2" as I remember. Just place the tail stock where you can pull back out of the stock fully (well, OK, with a long drill you have to move the tail stock back, but that's a given) without bottoming the ram in the tail stock, and you're fine.
Reply to
Jim McGill
Not trusting my aging short term memory that much anymore I usually stick a strip of masking tape adjacent to the scale and make a pen mark next to the graduation I need to stop at.
Works for me...
Reply to
Jeff Wisnia
Hopefully the right thing. Night before last production was having problems with a drill press with too much runout. Someone had whacked the quill and damaged the taper.
The second shift maint guy, cut off 1/2" off of the quill to get to good taper.
The first shift guys didn't figure out the run out was from the taper though they worked on it quite a while.
I'm a bit embarassed by both shifts performance.
Back to your lathe issue. I've never had a tailstock in pieces but my co-worker tells me that there is a rod inside that pushes against your tang. He seemed to think it was adjustable. I'd not cut off that tang, using a big drill and spinning your taper adaptor in your quill is going to raise some holly knockers in addition to being a biatch to get released.
Wes S
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