YES!

Two nuts gas welded to two studs in the exhaust manifold. Studs that had probably been in place since the backhoe was made back in the 70s. I say had been in place because I got them both out. Now I don't need to remove the manifold from the tractor. When the new exhaust riser that bolts to the manifold arrives on Tuesday or Wednesday I'll just need to bolt it on and fit the exhaust pipe to it. I was really thinking that the exhaust and intake manifolds were gonna need to come off of the engine. I am now really happy. Time for a barley soda. Eric

Reply to
etpm
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Which reminds me , I have a bag of barley in the pantry , came from the local Mennonite store . I wonder what they'd think about me malting and brewing it - it was bought for use in soups but ...

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Snag

Reply to
Terry Coombs

What would Plan B have been?

-jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Is the barley whole? Is it still alive? I've bought plenty of barley in the store over the years for bacon and barley soup but I never tried to get it to sprout, the first stage in malting grain. But then all you really need is an enzyme to convert the starch to sugar and I'm sure that's how the big boys do it. As for the Mennonites, I'm sure you do and say all sorts of things they don't agree with and yet they still sell to you. So why not malt some barley and tell us how it went? Eric

Reply to
etpm

Yes , the barley is whole and should be viable for germination . That was a passing fancy , I have neither the time nor the inclination right now to make beer . Got a house that needs finishing , I'd like to at least have sheet rock on all the walls before fall . The vaulted kitchen ceiling may have to wait a while ... it gets wood . And faux beams . Hey , as of today we have 2 functioning toilets - grand kids are coming for a visit later this week and Mama said ... so Papa did . That bathroom doesn't have any sheet rock on the walls either ...

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Snag

Reply to
Terry Coombs

Risers are easier since there are fewer studs and straighter access, but they can be as fun as manifolds.

Manifold procedure on autos (and probably tractors):

Normally, it consists of snapping off studs while trying to remove the nuts, removing the exhaust from the manifold, removing the manifold from the broken studs, sawing off the studs at head level, center- punching and drilling out the studs, installing helicoils (depending on access, sometimes it's easier or only possible by removing the head to do this), and finally, putting in new studs. Anti-seize is used to prevent this from ever happening again.

I heard about the trick of welding the nut to the stud to loosen the stud AFTER a couple of the more tedious procedures.

My sister's mechanic didn't notice the length difference on some of the studs and broke a stud through to the water jacket on her VW station wagon (unk engine/who cares, it's a VW.) And he had to buy her a used head and pay for another valve grinding. Luckily, she was smart and called when she saw steam, not when the red light came on to tell her that her engine was fried or seized.

Early on, I started the practice of sticking bolts through a piece of cardboard (with an outline of the shape of the engine part on which I was working) to A) hold the bolt from rolling around or getting lost and B) keep its place in the assembly marked. This was especially important when I started ten projects at once and was waiting on parts for five of them over a period of weeks or months. Nuts got tied to it by having baling wire poked through the cardboard. That silly little practice has served me -very- well over the years.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

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