Chuck backplate material choice

Hi Dave,

A stool does sound like a good idea, it certa> Hi Rob, sorry to see you are fellow sufferer, 21 years now for my back

Cheers, Rob

There are special stools for that purpose. We call them "standing stool" or "standing aid" and aren't really for sitting on, more kind of leaning. They look like this:

Different styles and prices available. Bigger tool dealers have them too, sometimes. I use mine sometimes and I can reccommend them.

Also, don't stand on concrete, but on some kind of rubber mat. That really helps!

Nick

That looks the business Nick. I could probably weld up something out of a bit of spare tube though and save a few bob ;-) Actually, I wonder if a shooting stick could be adapted? You have a good point about standing on concrete, I could do with getting some anti-fatigue matting - doesn't seem that cheap though for a bit of rubber :-(

Back to the adapter, I've got it all fitted up on the lathe now, just got to wait for the chuck to arrive so I can finish up the mounting spigot and I should be set.

Cheers, Rob

What I got therefor (yes, those anti-fatigue mattes are expensive) was a much cheaper rubber doormat. That type often found in the entrance of bigger buildings. Has holes in it, quite thick, not too hard. If you don't understand what I wasn't able to describe I can post a picture. :-)

Nick

Hi Rob, good luck with the spigot. Are you going for a tight fit o

leave room for adjustment? Hi Nick, i have searched the net to fin your link and found some weird back pain sites but not the one yo gave, good job i am not a hypo, regards Dav

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I have found chiropractic very helpful

Well, this is an interesting development. The chuck has a 125mm recess and the 3 mounting bolts on the backplate:

a 127mm outer diameter. I was going to replace those 3 bolts with countersunk cap screws, but now I think I'll just glue them in place and machine them so that they form a three point spigot in effect. I'll go for a good fit between them and the chuck, but I'm pretty certain they'll do the job. The chuck is front mounted with M10 cap screws so that'll be held on pretty tight with those.

Charles Lam> I have found chiropractic very helpful

I used to go to an Oesteopath pretty regularly but never got much out of it other than temporary relief. I'm not sure how different Oesteo is to Chiro mind. I've consulted my sister (conveniently a doctor) who doesn't think I'll get anything useful out of the NHS for mechanical back pain, and if it did turn out to be disc related (which she doubts) then I'd be up for some pretty risky back surgery. Perhaps a case of better the Devil you know. I would like to find out one way or the other what the root cause of it is though.

Cheers, Rob

Hi Rob

As an ex sciatica sufferer I sympathise. An NMR scan should be able to accurately diagnose the problem. It did in my case and surgery was the only answer and a complete cure. (Touch wood).

Russell

HI Rob, looked at your pic, what lathe is it, the tailstock look

identical to my Clarke lathe. The fit of the spigot on my lathe is ver close, i have to use a mallet when changing chucks. I once read a article that stated that if you machine the spigot undersize, then yo can clock the chuck into place before tightening the bolts, i dont kno if this a good idea or not, i have never tried it. I went to th hospital yesterday and the consultant has recommended a scan, whoopee i cant wait, regards Dav

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It's a Warco 300/1 lathe mill combo, so yes same as the one Clarke retail (plus a few other brands). I guess my spigot is a bit looser that yours as I've never had to resort to persuasion to get the chuck off.

Sounds feasible, although possibly a bit tricky. I mounted up my new backplate the other day, it was running about 0.5mm off true, didn't take too long to get it running perfectly true, so I feel pretty confident that I'll be able to use it to true up with the chuck in place.

Result! I really should go and bug my Doctor.

Cheers, Rob

Hi Rob, i dont know what work you do on your lathe but most of my stuf

is short length. One of the biggest problems i have is the tailstoc fouling the cross slide when using tailstock support, it seems th sticky out bits are on the wrong side. There is a big overhang on th tailstock end of the lathe but a vertical surface on the chuck end what with the short barrel movement (about 23mm) it is near impossibl to do some machining jobs, i have rotated my t/s 180deg, it just need clocking in and has given that freedom that was lacking in the origina design. One worry i have is the t/s clamp is now at the rear end of th barrel, only time will tell if i have to move it. Go see the doc, this is one of the mistakes i made, self employed an just grit your teeth, get on with it. In my case, as far as th government are concerned, i was healthy, not causing trouble, when i comes to claiming benefits you are looked on as something that on picks up on thier shoe when walking the dog, all the best Dav

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I know exactly what you mean, the t/s is pretty useless if you need to get up close, and the range of the barrel is a bit useless, although I can move m> Go see the doc, this is one of the mistakes i made, self employed and

Well I've been told to just contact the surgery's physiopherapist direct, so I'll see about getting around to that this week.

Back to the chuck, it's finally on and mounted up on the lathe. Did the usual when getting very close to the correct spigot diameter, "just one more cut" I though, and the tolerance was gone - ho hum! Anyway I managed to center up a bit of 1" bar in it to within 0.01mm, although I suspect my dti is not actually that accurate, cheap chinese junk me thinks! I'm now knackered after winding the chuck jaws in and out a few times, it's insanely stiff to turn. I suppose I should take it all off the lathe and pull the chucks rear plate to see if there's any reason for it being so tight. Even when I completely removed the 3 jaws it was tight to turn. Dunno if that just means it's more accurate to start with :-/

Cheers, Rob

Hi Rob, sounds like something binding in your chuck. One of the firs

things i did when i bought my lathe was to fix 3 stainless studs int the chuck using loctite, i found it easier to locate the chuck and the screw on the nuts, rather than try to thread the bolts in such a smal space while holding the weight of the chuck, hope that makes sence. have the 4 jaw for my lathe but would probably need a hoist to do th change over nowadays. Good luck with the physio, cheers Dav

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Well I pulled it all apart this evening, couldn't see anything wrong with it, so I put it back together and it turns much better now, clearly I have a magic touch ;-)

Most cunning! Fitting the bolts from the back is indeed a pain. This new backplate has studs in effect, the bolts pass though from the front and are araldited in place, makes life a lot easier!

I bought an old Pratt Bernard 8" 4 jaw from RDG a couple of years ago, coupled with the rather crude steel backplate I made up for that means I have to be on very good form before even thinking about getting it up on to the lathe. I should've used studs on that backplate, that's for sure!! Think I should probably sell it on and get a more sensible

6" 4 jaw should the need ever arise.

Cheers, Rob