Draughtproofing up-and-over garage doors

Jul 14, 2006 7 Replies

I've successfully insulated the walls, roof and doors of the garage/workshop but the door edges are still beating me. What have people done about the top, bottom and sides of up-and-over doors Google turned-up an interesting rubber "bump" that gets stuck to the floor - are they any good?



Dave


I used dampproof course membrane, folded in half. the floded edge out, then fitted by pop riviting it between the door and a thin steel bar, cheap and efective in my garage, ymmv of course

hth Dave

The other option is to replace the door with one of these:-

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endosing the company, just the style of door.

Sealed all round and at the horizontal joints and with built in insulation. The added bonus is security, an ordinary up and over door can be dragged out in about ten seconds with a lot of noise. I have had a similar one now for about two years, you dont get any dust or rubbish blowing in and it is no longer the cold wall in winter.

Andy M

If the current doors were damaged or scruffy I'd consider it, but they aren't - OOI how many megapounds are these doors? How do they seal them and make them more secure than normal up-and-overs?

Dave

They are about twice the price of an up & over door, including fitting and an electric opener. The are up to two inches thick, with insulation filling the gap.

Sealing is by rubber strips on the joints between panels and up both sides and along the top. The bottom has a rubber buffer approx 1.1/2 deep which seals against the floor.

I am advised that an up & over door can have hooks put under or around the bottom corners and with the use of a car be pulled out in seconds. The structure of the door is very flimsy. The other style door is panelled in steel both outside and inside and the insulation bonds it all together. The inside also carries ribbing across the door for strength. It runs vertically inside rails as is rises or lowers.

Andy M

I hate up and over doors. hence the reason I built my own standard twin doors when we built the new workshop/garage.

Mine are 3" thick with 50mm poly insulation in the core. I made these by creating a frame from 2x3 and 2x4 sawn treated, and faced it with

1/2" marine ply. Bullshit on the outside face with vbit in a router to make it look like they are a built up door.

If I recall they cost me about 100 pounds to make + a day of time.

Wayne...

I used polyurethane foam. But then, I didn't want the door to be openable by the local tea leafs either!

Mark Rand RTFM

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