Workshop Insulation - how to seal up'n'over doors?

I solved the same problem with a tanalised (pressure treated) batten on the floor, attached with a building adhesive ('Gripfill') It's been down for twenty years. Any particular reason why this isn't acceptable? --

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier way!"

Just that I'm sure someone would stumble over it, and there's always a chance that I might move everything to one side to get a car in (heavy stuff round the edge, everything else on wheels).

Dave

WHAT?? Putting a car in a garage?? Now there's a novel idea. I must try that sometime when I can find my garage floor

Regards, Tony

Scots tight?? Haven't you heard of Andrew Carnegie??

All the tight stories I've ever heard were all about Yorkshiremen.:-)

Archie

I did consider a new garage/workshop but senior management decided that there were too many round tuits needing attention.

Archie

How about fitting a home-made seal, in the form of a length of soft polythene tube, to the bottom edge of the door? 'Gripfill' or any similar building adhesive should do the trick.

--

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier way!"

I used a tin of foam and glued the door shut, but I haven't managed to fit a car in the garage since I had a Mini...

Mark Rand RTFM

How about rubber flap nailed/screwed/pop-riveted to the bottom of the door, instead of brushes? May need some thought to get it to lay in the right position. See:

Try here:

Tom

There is a mini in my garage somewhere!!!! ( came in for some minor work 4 years ago, got lost under the stuff)

I used damp proof course membrane, the stuff thats about 4" wide, black and on a roll. I cut a strip the length of the bottom of the door, folded it in half then sandwiched it between the bottom of the door and a thin steel bar, fixed with some pop rivets. I put it crease down onto the floor, so it brushes against it when the door is shut. Cheap as chips, iirc a roll (100m) of DPC was about =A35, and its been in place 7 years now without replacement. Its not insulating as such, but it does stop the draughts effectivley hth

Dave

Hello Dave,

Snip

Snip

Converted my single up'n'over to swing type and fitted the brush strips to fill the gap. They work perfectly, and when opened, sweep away my neighbour's bl**dy hedge leaves, which previously just blew straight under the door into the garage. The extra space I've gained by having a swing door is quite amazing. Was able to add and extra machine! Anything that sweeps and seals, like a rubber strip would work fine. Oh for a double garage - sigh. Regards GeoffH (The Pirate) Norfolk - UK not VA

I'd agree, the brush strip works fine on mine, especially good for keeping leaves out.

I'd put the car in the garage, but it's kind of hard since I put a workshop (glorified shed) for the wife about 6 feet in front of it. Also difficult to move as a) It's really heavy and b) it's wired into the garage ring main, adding 5 more double sockets to the 10 already in the garage.

Stu G

Those leaves collect under the carport and are a real PITA even though the neighbour in one door away and across the street. It's windy Norfolk to blame.

Car in garage - wash your mouth out man! Sacrilege.

Can't have too many power points. I have about 20 doubles ready to install soon with any luck. Am thinking of mounting the ones for machines on the rafters so that the leads are out the way. May use spiral wrap for protection. No space on walls, as they are completely covered with shelves and all that must keep 'junk' and tools etc. The garage was sooo bright when first painted white, I needed to wear sunglasses. Floor and ceiling are both painted white, and garage door has 2" EPS glued on so this compensates somewhat. Regards GeoffH (The Pirate) Norfolk - UK not VA

In article , Archie writes

The definition of a Yorkshireman is "what's left after you squeeze all the generosity out of a Scotsman".

Also, never ask a man if he's a Yorkshireman - if he isn't, you'll only embarrass him, and if he is he'll have tell't thee already.

David

In article , stooby-doo writes

A car with a ring main? Wow, that's an idea.

David

No - the wife

Regards, Tony

My workshop is a double garage. One door I sealed shut (gap filling foam) and then boarded over the inside. the other door I use occasionally (like when I want to put more machines in ). I made a wooden frame that fits over into the door recess, faced it with hardboard and lined the back with polystyrene. It was meant to be clipped in place, but it's been OK since I put it up with a crow bar wedged at one side and a stcck-on toolbox against the other side. When I want to use the door I just move it out of the way and lean it against the garage wall (Ok, against the stuff next to the wall).

Important note about up and over garage doors. If used for a workshop disconnect the wires that link the lock in the middle to the bolts that secure the door shut. The locks fitted to these doors take about

5 seconds to break. This will take you about 30 seconds to do, and potentially save you a lot of cost and heartache. if you need to open the door from outside there are after market locks available -fit one!

Regards Kevin

Solved my draft problem years ago, i took the up and over off and buil

a low wall, fitted second hand double glazed window and door, Dav Whitley Ba

-- DCree

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Thanks to everyone for the advice. I can't bring myself to replace the doors yet, but there are lots of other ideas there to play around with. I like the idea of the rubber strip that the door shuts against but in some places the gap is over 20mm, so maybe something improvised from DPC is the answer.

Dave