or, I suppose, more correctly, bronze welding.
I see there are supplies of silicon bronze in mig reels. Anyone tried it?
with what results?
specifically, does it have special gas or machine requirements?
It'd not work for actual brazing type operations of course. but a lot of
what I do is not strictly brazing.
all i can see is ...the first time you have the wire burn back to the
nozzle ......youve a ruined tip............the wire would crush in the
rollers and maybe ...ravel up in the tube .
all the best.markj
mm, it's OK, not as strong as brazing and not as nice a weld (though
that may be down to operator error) but I've used it, again with
argoshield, with satisfactory results on pump bodies and the like.
Put it this way, the small amount of "brass" mig wire I had ran out a
couple of years ago, and haven't missed it, if I had more brazing to
do next week I'd just refill the oxyacetylene tanks.
I have done silicon bronze brazing using a Lincoln SP125+ welder. This
is a little 115 volt machine and the wire I used is .025", .625mm.
Argon shielding gas and the machine set to maximum voltage. My little
machine has just barely enough power to run this wire. But pre-heating
the steel I used it on made it work much better.
.I saw it done at a local demo and went out and bought a big coil of
As MarkJ has reported, my spool went all over the place exceot where
it was intended. I had burn backs, squashed wire, bird's nests and who
Obviously, some people can do it but maybe the welding equipment was
superior to Mark's and my BOC 130 amp job which was running on
As the wire obvious;y deformed, the question was what was causing the
trouble. Were the rollers wrong? was the sleeving wrong? was the
spring sheathing wrong? or were the nipples the wrong size? Or was it
Now I was a certified welder. And I felt that I needed to be
Agreed but I did and failed!
But brazing(?) is really a method for joining disimilar metals.
Ok, I am in for it again but the vehicle body people will go for spot
welding wherever they can, count the spots according to Thatcham or
when all else fails 'stitch' with steel wire in a decent MIG/MAG
I've just had =A37+K of body work done on one of the Mercs and nothing
'Thatcham' is the RTFM
On or around Thu, 23 Oct 2008 23:10:06 +0100, Mark Rand
enlightened us thusly:
ah, now, there I made a good discovery. As you may know, I'm in the cycle
industry. Best stuff ever for torch-feed liner is indexed-type teflon-lined
bike gear cable outer casing. Just the right size, stiffer than the normal
stuff and thus less prone to kink. It's a very slow helix multi-wire
casing, not like the normal brake type ones with a fast single helix, and
likesay teflon liner.
I can supply lengths, if anyone wants :-)
Tip condition is probably relevant as well...
The issues with wire-feed and snarl-ups and so on sound very like what you
get with alu mig welding - everything's got to be in A1 condition to feed
On or around Thu, 23 Oct 2008 15:56:27 -0700 (PDT), ravensworth2674
enlightened us thusly:
Some metals aren't supposed to be welded. e.g. cro-mo alloy cycle tubes -
bronze welding doesn't get it so hot and doesn't spoil the structure.
this is another situation where workshop manuals etc are
being condensed to fit a format where 'one liners' are supposed to
really help. Of course, your comments are quite correct. I didn't
want to go into the realms of high strength low alloy steels which
crack on gas welding. And , of course, the morgues are full of those
who are foolish enough to do DIY welding! We crack a damned sight
quicker. Have you ever seen line cracks running down in parallel to a
Thank you for the opportunity to try to get the warning across
Brazing or silver soldering sheet with a scarf joint or backer will give a
stronger joint than welding if both are done properly. Unfortunately the MOT
inspectors are ordered to fail brazed joints on structural components. The
sole exception being where the car was originally manufactured using brazing
and the repair joint can be directly compared with the original work
Of course, some of the AHSS steels being used for car bodies these days can't
be welded without loosing their strength...
MIG-brazing seems to me to be the worst of all worlds for most things (pretty
joints with no possibility of fusion and no guarantee of mechanical joining),
but I guess it's ok if done properly or where bondo would be the alternative.
But you already knew all that :-)