Which glue to use?

I have used "Araldite" and "JB Weld" for applications similar to this. I found that JB Weld was far superior. As an example, a cars VHF radio aerial hit a low flying tree and snapped half way up the radiator at a matching coil whose cross section was about 1 square inch. Araldite would'nt hold it at 5MPH, JB Weld is still holding it together after 10 years or so at speeds sometimes in excess of 100MPH. Its worth a try..

I'll second JB Weld. I've used it to, amongst other things, stitch a Land Rover engine and repair a Rayburn flue.

Failing that, you could try a low temperature silver solder - should be quite possible to achieve a good joint without affecting the plating. I've used this method with nickel plated items to good effect.

Regards,

Not come across JB Weld, it sounds very good. Sounds similar to Belzona which is a metal filled epoxy which is used in industry to recover some nasty problems, though more often filling erosion damage or replacing cracked fragments of casting. I'd be concerned about just glueing unless there is plenty of area. Isn't it possible to drill out the offending bit of stud and tap oversize?

I've never used silver solder - is it melted with a torch or with an iron?

I've got a Sievert Propane/Butane torch - is that the kind of thing that I could use?

The joint is composed of, and bear with me, a recessed male part that joins to a female part, both of which have female threads in them...

...sounds like I'm getting it wrong... the "male" part is in the form of a hexagon (about 6mm if I remember) with an M4 hole tapped down the middle. Not sure why they made it like that, as it doesn't turn and there is no correspondingly shaped receptacle. This hexagon shaped stud is recessed in a ~12mm, um, recess which is the outer diameter of the other part. This second part is also recessed to the rough diameter across the points of the hexagon (wish I had a CAD program to hand) and has an M4 hole at the bottom of it.

Ah, a picture:

Both holes are blind and cannot be drilled through without spoiling the look of the piece.

Not enough metal to tap oversize, unfortunately. I've already lost one of my expensive cobalt drillbits trying to get the studs out. I've bunged some Araldite on and I'll see how it holds out before I look at brazing...

Couldn't view the pic - the page requires a login.

Silver solder will need a torch to achieve the temperature required to melt it. Your Sievert torch should be plenty adequate provided you use the correct solder ( and flux ).

From your description though it seems that the stud and socket overlap, in which case it sounds as though an epoxy fix would work quite well.

Regards,

To increase your chance of success... can you drill out the stud oversize and glue in a bit of rod to replace it ?

I still don't think there is enough metal to do that...

I've glued it with Araldite and bought some JB Weld in the States in case that fails. Might be possible to weld a piece of M6 studding in place, I suppose, but I'll see if the glue works it's magic first...

JB Weld available here at Probuild ............

Bought some this week. Very helpful.

Mike

I have bought some Auto JB Weld from Halfords