Slicer settings guide for FDM 28mm miniatures

Oct 12, 2026 Last reply: 2 hours ago 2 Replies
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The idea behind this project is a simple but bold one: that proper tabletop miniatures at 28 mm scale can come off an ordinary home FDM printer, no resin machine required. To back that up, the maker put together a full settings guide covering the key slicer choices for 28 mm figures, and then shared it after running the same profile on a Prusa i3 MKS2 with little to no trouble.



The guide is built around Cura profiles, with the Terrain and Mini profile files recommended for the Ender 3, refreshed for Cura 4.8 in February 2021. The reasoning is laid out for each setting rather than just handed over. Layer heights of 0.08 mm to 0.1 mm are favoured over going down to 0.05 mm, and three perimeter shells on a 0.4 mm nozzle give 2.4 mm of solid thickness. The guide argues firmly against 100 percent infill, using diagrams to show how the extra plastic gets pushed out as blobs, surface deviations and stringing. It also explains that radiant heat from the nozzle can soften thin layers underneath, and that solid plastic increases thermal contraction forces, curling outer details inward. Small extremities like ankles and spears end up as entirely perimeter walls no matter the infill setting anyway.



On the maker's own machine the profile runs at a 215 C nozzle and a 55 C bed, with Inland or Hatchbox filament, and print temperature is the only value touched when slicing. A bed leveling test model comes with the guide, and drop resistance gets its own discussion. Two miniatures were completed with this profile and reportedly worked out great: a grey skeleton warrior carrying a spear, plus green lizardmen both painted and unpainted.



One open point remains: the glass transition figure for standard PLA is given as roughly 65 degrees in one edit, while other text puts it at 85 to 90, and the maker has apologized for not separating Pro from standard PLA on that point.



Project by Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors (Fat Dragon Games). Watch it on their YouTube channel:

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The three shell approach seems like the smartest call in the whole guide. As it points out, thin parts like ankles and spears are all perimeter wall regardless of infill, so packing the rest solid buys almost nothing. Worse, solid plastic raises thermal contraction forces that curl outer details inward, and the extra flow turns into blobs and stringing. Three shells with moderate infill looks like the sweet spot to me.

Since print temperature is the only adjustment the maker makes when slicing, I would suggest dialing in that number per spool before judging the profile. Inland and Hatchbox do not always behave the same, and the guide runs 215 C at the nozzle with a 55 C bed. A quick temperature sweep on the included bed leveling test model first seems like a cheap way to lock everything in.

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