Copperheads & Aerotech...any tips?

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The $5 pointers are hardly 5mw. You've got to get a good one for a good bit more change to get close to the 5mw limit. Even the ones rated at 5mw are usually way below unless hand tweaked for maximum output. I just tried my tweaked GREEN 5mw laser, and not only doesn't it light a match, it doesn't even warm it up a bit.
Still, heed the warning: "Do not look into laser beam with remaining eye".
--
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L >>> To reply, there's no internet on Mars (yet)! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://nira-rocketry.org/Document/MayJun00.pdf
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Many range rules frown on installing ignitors in HPR models until they are on the pad. The HPR safety code says "...electrical motor igniters that are installed in the motor only after my rocket is at the launch pad or in a designated prepping area."
--
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L >>> To reply, there's no internet on Mars (yet)! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://nira-rocketry.org/Document/MayJun00.pdf
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kaplow snipped-for-privacy@encompasserve.org.mars says...

It's a silly rule.
--
Tweak

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Someone said:

On Tue, 3 Oct 2006 08:48:28 -0400, Tweak

It might seem like a silly rule for igniters like Estes igniters and AeroTech Copperhead and FirstFire igniters, but when you consider all of the ignition options that exist then it becomes less of a silly rule.
Without a source of electricity, high current igniters like AeroTech Copperhead and FirstFire igniters will not accidently fire. Igniters built around an ematch, however, can accidently ignite under the right, but rare, circumstances when electricity is not connected to the igniter leads.
The situation becomes more complex with head-end igniters.
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snipped-for-privacy@nowhere.com says...

I want to see something more substantial (and substantiated) than "I heard". Where is the data?
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Tweak

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Craig wrote:

Craig, That what I used to do, except I used a flashlight to find the slot. Your laser idea is much better. I'd take a razor blade & mark the location of the slot on the edge of the nozzle. I think AT sells some better ignitors than the Copperheads that you can purchase. Darian
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I feel your pain. :-( I've fiddled away lots of time messing with copperheads trying to get them to work too. A tip that someone told me that works well is to melt the leads apart with a Bic lighter. (on the non-pyrogen end of course!!) It makes hooking up a bit easier.
Hey Gary!!! Are you listening? Most of your customers hate Crapperheads! I for one would be willing to pay a bit more for a reload that had a quality igniter.
Joe Michel

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I thought the newer HPR reloads have these regular nichrome igniters.... thats only on HPR motors?
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TAI FU
"J.A. Michel" < snipped-for-privacy@spamnotalltel.net> wrote in message
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Yes, the HPR motors have a real igniter in them. The mid-power SU motors and reloads have copperheads.
Joe Michel

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J.A. Michel wrote:

The G79W & G77R comes with Firstfire ignitors too...
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Those use the 'standard' 29mm casings, not the 'hobby' 29mm casing. The 'hobby' ones use copperheads, but the ones that use different length casings come with the FirstFire igniters.
David Erbas-White
Andy Eng wrote:

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David Erbas-White wrote:

True -- But the G motor isn't HPR either, eh? It's all a blur anyway...
BTW - You asked if anybody's done velcro strength testing. My office buddy did so a few months ago during the post Columbia standdown. Velcro's everywhere to hold down everything like notepads, pencils, calculators, sunglasses, etc. Just wanted to make sure the stuff didn't let go during ascent. The gist was that the sep-force varied alot depending on if you were peeling apart or pulling in tension. Pure shear was pretty stout too. The separation impulse F/dt was probably the next factor. Fresh & old doesn't matter so much as how often you pull it apart. We've got some gripless velcro attachments inside station that had simply wore out.
For recovery systems, I'd guess no more than about 1/4-1/2 inch of overlap & 1/2" wide is a reasonable starting point. I use the stuff by the rolls to hold down my guitar pedals and keep mic cables neat in the studio and at shows. May give it a try with rockets someday.
Fun stuff...
Best, Andy
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snipped-for-privacy@netzero.net wrote:

The other tip I saw go unmentioned is how to make the damn thing light... There are three methods I see most often... Heat up the leads on the side opposite the pyrogen with a lighter (provided the igniter is NOT inserted in the motor... That'd be a horrible idea), the leads will peel apart and you'll have two easy leads for clipping. Masking tape one side both sides of it so that the tape leaves about a 1/4-1/2 inch space on both sides of the lead. Buy one of those aerotech clips... those work pretty well.
Biggest reason I see crapperheads not work is a short before the pyrogen.
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Zach wrote:

I held a lighter on one for 5 minutes and I never could get it to light. ;-)
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Darrell D. Mobley wrote:

Yeah, it's hard to smoke 'em when they won't light :)
Doug Successful Copperhead user thanks to Bic lighters...
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And the best fix is higher voltage to "blow" the shorts.
--
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L >>> To reply, there's no internet on Mars (yet)! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://nira-rocketry.org/Document/MayJun00.pdf
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