ematches?

Why, do they sell M-tek matches?

Reply to
Dave Grayvis
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I picked up a bunch from Performance Hobbies over the weekend. They worked fine with my low-current altimeters.

And the heads fit perfectly into the charge-well of my CD3 deployment system... unlike Daveys or Oxrals, which need to have the plastic cap cut to pieces. :-)

Reply to
Len Lekx

Don't count on it. Oxral matches are also drying up as they are no longer being supplied to the NA market. Daveyfire has closed its doors, and Lunatech can no longer get Oxrals, both due to litigation from fireworks accidents causing the overseas manufacturers to withdraw from the NA fireworks market which is the market for which they were imported.

Reply to
Mike Dennett

You have to use solid solder and acid flux with nichrome. Rosin flux will not work well!

Reply to
Phil Stein

Hi,

For regular ground ignition of motors I've actually had good luck with using 22 to 26 gauge wires, depending on the engine throats and 30 to 36 gauge nichrome. Have used the acid flux and silver solder for soldering but I have had extremely good luck with just using a wire wrap tool from Radio Shack. Now given this is my technique for motor ignition and a misfire only leads to just replacing the igniter and trying to launch again. I would use everything in my power to try to use the most reliable system for ejection charge activation. My igniter success is due entirely to advice given here. I also constructed a relay ignition system with three 7.5 amp-hr gel cells. I'm sure that has played a part in reliable ignition. I have a relay box I built in the late 60's from the Model Rocketry magazine. How the heck I didn't kill myself with it as I used something like 20 gauge wire for all the internal connections, including the contacts from the relay! It worked but I always wondered why I had to replace a bunch of fuses! I did have it fused. Needless to say, I retired the unit but still have as a link to the past.

Kurt Savegnago

Mark Daughtry, SR wrote:

Reply to
Kurt

Which dip do you prefer or do you make your own?

Reply to
Jerry Irvine

I just talked to Marsha at Lunatech.

Oxral is a brand name owned by Lunatech. Several manufacturers have made Oxrals over the years for Luatech. They have a new Australian manufacturer they are currently testing.

Disney is the biggest consumer of Oxral ematches. Disney is testing the several version of the new Oxrals this week. Lunatech will start importing Oxrals as soon as Disney gives the go ahead for which version they want.

It sounds like it will take several months for any Oxrals to actually be available again. Lunatech only sells to ATF permit holders and the shipping and handling fees would be $40 or so.

Brian Elfert

Reply to
Brian Elfert

Good show. Last I spoke to them (maybe two weeks ago??) they had not yet found another viable source. So this is progress of a sort. The updated version of my comment below should read "Lunatach can no longer get Oxral matches from Austin Detonator".

Mike D.

Reply to
Mike Dennett

Been there done that. The problem with using nichrome on the chip type igniters is that to get the solder to stick well you have to get it real hot which will cause the copper to lift from the board. The copell is MUCH easier to solder due to it being copper/nickel rather than steel/nickel.

Reply to
Mark Daughtry, SR

Agreed.

BTW - whoever mentioned Xmas bulbs - from my observations, Xmas bulbs are NOT a reliable method of igniting anything. I realize some have has sucess but that's a far cry from most.

Reply to
Phil Stein

Onion

Reply to
Phil Stein

Are you saying that all Nichrome is steel/nickel?

If so, I say "poo poo".

;-)

I have dozens of pounds of 80/20 Nichrome. Zero iron content. Brand names are Tophet A or Chromel A.

The "C" type is chock full of iron and can rust.

I have yet to solder it. I just twist it to the leads or use it by itself.

-Fred Shecter NAR 20117

Reply to
shreadvector

OK, I just looked up the thread and saw that you were talking about the cheasy nichrome sold my MMC. That is the iron filled nichrome. Ick.

Go for the good stuff.

80/20.
Reply to
shreadvector

I missed the steel/nickel part. I use lead/tin solder. Have you tried that?

Reply to
Phil Stein

Hi Jerry,

I am using the firestarter kit and am getting close to the end of the first kit. I have a refill but I also have an igniterman kit on the shelf that has an extra coating. I've only been back at the hobby for

9 months and not sophisticated enough to mix from scratch.

Kurt Savegnago

Reply to
Kurt

Good one!

Reply to
Kurt

THAT'S the place I ordered them at! Thanks Kurt

Reply to
Kurt

You waiting for Kenny to remember to ship them? GFL

Reply to
Phil Stein

Grinding bp with a pestle,.. hmmm.

I wouldn't suggest using Dave's 'igniters' for recovery ematches. For davey-like see:

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more consistent results on 9v and REAL nitrocellulose instead of pingpong goo.

However, their primer is not to be trifled with. Even a small batch is pressure sensitive when dry so mix wet as suggested (goggles, gloves,..) and dispose of the remainder when done.

Reply to
Well, maybe

A couple of weeks ago I purchased some Oxrals. I am surprised they are so hard to get. Did the supply just dry up in the last few weeks?

I also have done a lot of testing with using Christmas tree lights with Pyrodex (4f bp is hard to find where I live). The tests show it will work great. A friend of mine has used his Christmas tree light igniters with Pyrodex successfully during several flights. Of course since we got the Oxrals he has been using those lately. With all the flights and testing we have done together the Christmas tree lights with Pyrodex have been very reliable. I have even ground tested Pyrodex with my Defy Gravity Tether. Works great. The key with Pyrodex is to make sure you build back pressure. Electrical tape works great.

Good luck!

Reply to
Mike

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