ematches?

Len Lekx wrote:


THAT'S the place I ordered them at! Thanks Kurt
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You waiting for Kenny to remember to ship them? GFL
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Phil Stein wrote:

No,
I got them a long time ago. If you have problems with him, he might have tried to impress me. He did deliver product to me although I can't remember how long it took to get it to me. I ordered in anticipation of future usage of the igniters. As it turned out, I got my home made stuff to work. (Albeit with a bit of help with a relay ignition system.) :)
Kurt Savegnmago
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FireFox (http://www.firefox-fx.com /) sells davey clone match heads. You supply lead wire and a pyrogen dip. I have had great results using their 1/32" double sided copper clad board and Copell wire to make my own match heads. Look here (http://www.sparksrocketry.com/igniters.htm ) for an excellent tutorial to make match head/chip type igniters.
--
Best regards,
Mark Daughtry, SR
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Mark Daughtry, SR wrote:

I tried that, using their "low current" non-conductive primer and pyrogen. They don't work. The tiny bridgewire burns off without producing enough heat to ignite the primer.
t
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

That is what I am trying to avoid.
Kurt Savegnago
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Mark Daughtry, SR wrote:

Will check this out.
Kurt Savegnago
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It will be well worth your while if you have a do-it-yourself type of personality like me ;-). I tried regular nichrome (From McMaser-Carr) on regular 1/6" double sided board (from Rat Shack). No matter what folks say, even with the ruby whatever flux, nichrome is a bitch to solder (with whatever lead free solder). The Cople from FireFox is great stuff because it has a copper/chromium mixture rather than a steel/chromium mixture and solders rather easily. I have had GREAT results using this (And I don't shout in caps very often).
BTW, I never had much of a gripe with copperheads, I just wanted to experiment with other types of igniters that I could make on my own which led to conductive bridgewire dips and eventually to "chip/davey" type igniter heads.
--
Best regards,
Mark Daughtry, SR
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On Thu, 26 May 2005 06:59:05 GMT, "Mark Daughtry, SR"

You have to use solid solder and acid flux with nichrome. Rosin flux will not work well!
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wrote:

Been there done that. The problem with using nichrome on the chip type igniters is that to get the solder to stick well you have to get it real hot which will cause the copper to lift from the board. The copell is MUCH easier to solder due to it being copper/nickel rather than steel/nickel.
--
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Mark Daughtry, SR
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Are you saying that all Nichrome is steel/nickel?
If so, I say "poo poo".
;-)
I have dozens of pounds of 80/20 Nichrome. Zero iron content. Brand names are Tophet A or Chromel A.
The "C" type is chock full of iron and can rust.
I have yet to solder it. I just twist it to the leads or use it by itself.
-Fred Shecter NAR 20117
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OK, I just looked up the thread and saw that you were talking about the cheasy nichrome sold my MMC. That is the iron filled nichrome. Ick.
Go for the good stuff.
80/20.
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On Thu, 26 May 2005 18:28:37 GMT, "Mark Daughtry, SR"

I missed the steel/nickel part. I use lead/tin solder. Have you tried that?
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Agreed.
BTW - whoever mentioned Xmas bulbs - from my observations, Xmas bulbs are NOT a reliable method of igniting anything. I realize some have has sucess but that's a far cry from most.
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Hi,
For regular ground ignition of motors I've actually had good luck with using 22 to 26 gauge wires, depending on the engine throats and 30 to 36 gauge nichrome. Have used the acid flux and silver solder for soldering but I have had extremely good luck with just using a wire wrap tool from Radio Shack. Now given this is my technique for motor ignition and a misfire only leads to just replacing the igniter and trying to launch again. I would use everything in my power to try to use the most reliable system for ejection charge activation. My igniter success is due entirely to advice given here. I also constructed a relay ignition system with three 7.5 amp-hr gel cells. I'm sure that has played a part in reliable ignition. I have a relay box I built in the late 60's from the Model Rocketry magazine. How the heck I didn't kill myself with it as I used something like 20 gauge wire for all the internal connections, including the contacts from the relay! It worked but I always wondered why I had to replace a bunch of fuses! I did have it fused. Needless to say, I retired the unit but still have as a link to the past.
Kurt Savegnago
Mark Daughtry, SR wrote:

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Which dip do you prefer or do you make your own?
--
Jerry Irvine, Box 1242, Claremont, California 91711 USA
Opinion, the whole thing. <mail to: snipped-for-privacy@gte.net>
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wrote:

Onion
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Phil Stein wrote:

Good one!
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Jerry Irvine wrote:

Hi Jerry,
I am using the firestarter kit and am getting close to the end of the first kit. I have a refill but I also have an igniterman kit on the shelf that has an extra coating. I've only been back at the hobby for 9 months and not sophisticated enough to mix from scratch.
Kurt Savegnago
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Grinding bp with a pestle,.. hmmm.
I wouldn't suggest using Dave's 'igniters' for recovery ematches. For davey-like see: http://www.skylighter.com/skylighter_info_pages/article.asp?Item=9 much more consistent results on 9v and REAL nitrocellulose instead of pingpong goo.
However, their primer is not to be trifled with. Even a small batch is pressure sensitive when dry so mix wet as suggested (goggles, gloves,..) and dispose of the remainder when done.

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