Anyone have any tips, secrets, etc. for making STRONG paper or
cardstock shrouds? Short of fiberglassing, that is.
i.e., are there any materials which are superior to plain cardstock;
what about soaking the shroud with CA or thinned epoxy, etc?
I'm scratchbuilding a Peter Alway Vostok and my concern is that
the boosters will come out flimsy.
Soaking cardstock in CA sounds like a good
idea, at least for some applications. Some
other things to try: posterboard, laminating
over cardstock with kraft paper (and yellow
glue), filling card stock shrouds with 2-part
foam and using 1/64" plywood.
My cardstock shrouds usually look pretty
slummy until I FNF them, then they come
out pretty nice.
And I've done two 1/64" plywood boat tails
that turned out nice. My 2-part foam fills
have been less than stellar requiring lots
of FNF to get them looking good. Same for
laminating with kraft paper - lots of FNF
needed - but the shroud came out rock hard.
User of lots of FNF...
Laminate. I use two layer CA soaked tagboard for fins. But my strongest
paper objects (conical nosecones, couplers, and bulkheads) are just two
or three layers of PVA glued ink-jet printer paper over (index card)
cardstock or tagboard. A glue SOAKED piece of paper doesn't wrinkle. Wet
the paper thoroughly with glue, lay it on the cardstock form, smooth it
down, and wipe off the excess glue with a damp paper towel. Experiment
with a few layers and see if it has the strength you need.
It's basically just papier mache; the glue and the paper fibers form a
For the Launch Pad rocket I worked on, a cone had to be glued to the nose.
I used a 2 part foam to act as the glue, and boy did it do a perfect job.
Not only did it fill the cone, it mushroomed into the hole I drilled in the
tip of the nosecone. A very slight amount of filler and sanding and you
cannot tell there was a modification. The foam really makes the cone
Since this appears to be a wood fiber application, I don't see why Gorilla
glue wouldn't perform the same function, for small cavities. If it's a
large diameter transition, I'd probably build it by glassing over turned
we've had good results using Bristol Board instead of card stock. yesterday
we made a shroud for a Delta II payload section (yes it is MER-B), BT-60
a couple layers of Bristol Board laminated with yellow glue, that would be
post some pix of the Vostok eh!!!
these are the good old days
Cliff Sojourner email@example.com
I've used Bristol Board successfully.....it's available at art supply
stores....ask for it.....I think I even saw at at AC Moore and/ or Michaels,
where those 40% off & rare 50% off coupons come into play. If there are better
for our purposes Bristol Board than others....weight, ply, etc., please someone
educate us. I believe I first became aware of Bristol Board for shrouds from a
Peter Alway publication.
What IS tagboard. though? -- Richard "no profound comment" Hickok
Paper wrinkles primarily due to uneven liquid absorption by the fibers;
placing a piece of plain bond paper over a thin film of wet glue is
almost certain to result in wrinkles, especially if the glue is water
based. Anyone who has tried the "paper reinforced balsa fin" technique
has probably seen this. Wetting the paper with glue before application
ensures enough moisture to go around and reduces wrinkles.
Tagboard is just a heavy paper with smooth surfaces, as opposed to the
heavy papers with rough surfaces. I use index cards or manilla (file)
folders. "Board" papers are usually used to make "things"; cards,
folders, etc. "Bond" papers are usually written/printed upon. Also, I
use paper to mean cellulose fiber (wood, in general) products.
Paper is actually a fascinating construction medium and you can make
complex and fairly substantial assemblies with it.
I use thinned FNF painted over the shroud. Let it soak in and dry,
then sand it down to smooth and soak it with thin CA. Pay attention
to ventilation, it's going to smoke a bit when it goes off. Results
in a paper shroud that feels more like a plastic part.
Works good for balsa nose cones and fins also, just make sure you have
it shaped and smoothed before you hit it with the CA. You don't want
to have to sand any more than you have to after the CA sets.
I've used .010 sheet styrene with pretty good success. It leaves a very
smooth finish so basically all I have to do is bondo the seam. One thing
that I also do with ALL of my shrouds is fill them with 2 part expanding
NAR #81776 L1
-- "Those who give up a little freedom to obtain safety deserve neither
freedom nor safety."
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