Back in the game! Newbie questions...

Hi all,

After a 25 year hiatus from scale modelling, I am picking it back up again. When I was a kid, I used to do a lot of AFV models and dioramas, mostly WWII stuff, probably built every Tamiya WWII kit ever made...

We never had the nice detail accent etched kits back then (or I never knew), and it seems there are a few more kit makers in the game. It also looks to be much more detail and accuracy oriented now. I still remember all the techniques, but will take some hands on practice to get results. We also never had the Internet back then.

I now have the time and space to setup a nice workbench, and was wondering what are the better website's to go to for tips and tricks, and see the latest work. I have Goggled around a bit, but I am sure someone has a "definitive" list of must see's.

Also, as I am starting from scratch, what tools do I need to get back into the game? I have started a short list, but would love to hear other comments/suggestions. I have so far to buy...

1. X-Acto tool set, multiple blades and handles.

1. Dremel Mini Roto-Tool - Not sure the best model to buy, or the correct grinding wheels for poly/resin work.

2. Airbrush. I am sure a lot has changed in this after 25 years. I used to have a nice Paasche (sp?) years ago, but are there better/easier ones on the market? The old one used to have a problem with the paint well getting clogged with certain paints.

1. Paint. I am also sure this has advanced too. Any really good brand of accurate colors, or is Polywell and Humbolt still out there?

Any help would be appreciated, and I thank in advance for any given. My first models will probably be WWII late model US vehicles, and when enough are finished, a pretty large D-Day diorama. Always wanted to do that one as a kid.

Best to all

Fred

The old standard thin handle, and a ton of #11 blades, will satisfy

95% of your "knifin' needs".

A nice tool to have...but very much a luxury. This definitely does *not* fall into the "have to buy" category.

It depends more on what you are comfortable with. The Paasche design has not really changed in decades and decades. There is a reason for that: It works. If you were comfortable with it "back when", and feel you can get reaquainted with it easily, there is not really a reason to try anything else, initially.

This is definitely in the "what you are comfortable with" realm. Enamels, lacquers, acrylics, oils, watercolors? I know modelers who use *all* of these types, even on AFV models. It is really up to you to do some "messin' around" and finding out which works best for *you*; as there is no "right" answer.

And your one stop for just about any hobby needs, Tony M's site at:

-- Chuck Ryan snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEearthlink.net Springfield OH

[Snip!]

My must-have tools:

• Nail clippers or flush nippers (I find ordinary nail clippers handle most of the part cutting tasks well enough for my purposes)

• wire-cutting pliers (good for cutting the sprue itself, for the purpose of segregating parts; example: when you want to spraypaint parts before assembly)

• razor saws (I like the handsaw still. Have a Dremeloid but haven't tried it because I need a power controller for it)

• dremel drill bits

• a twidget screwdriver (like the kind used for servicing sewing machines)

• emory boards and sandpaper

• a draftsman's eraser shield (you'll be surprised how handy one is)

• spring-type clothespins

• clamps

• stick pins

And I think that about covers it, other than the usual paintbrushes and such. Hope this helps!

Stephen "FPilot" Bierce/IPMS #35922 "How much comfort would you think I'd expect to get from a God that others persist in using as a weapon against me?"--Tepid 9:26

On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 01:24:14 GMT, Greg Heilers scribed:

Perfect...Dinna want to buy too many handles. The standard one is fine as you suggest, and is on my list.

Since I have bought an old house (really, really old one), I may just get one anyway for knocking old nailheads down on the HW floors and such...While I understand it a luxury for a model maker, as a homeowner, I feel it is needed and if serves a dual purpose, then better use for the models...

Thanks for this! I always loved my old unit.

Any good places to buy or distribution information on those Airbrushes? As I said, I am starting out again so my info is old and only updated by Google searches.

For starters, you might want to check out the rms FAQ:

1. X-actos are good. Get some of that. You should also consider a sprue cutter, which is a smallish side cutter. They do a better job than knives or saws in most cases involving the removal of polystyrene parts from the sprues. A regular side cutter might be too big. Someone else will have to recommend a brand, as I just use a cheapo Testors, and a real side cutter for the larger sprue gates of limited-run kits. If you intend to use resin bits, a saw is very useful for removing the unwanted plugs.
2. I prefer the Dremel Minimite, a small, easily-wielded cordless tool. A rechargeable battery goes into the base. It has two speeds: 5K RPM and

10K RPM; the slower speed is almost always the one I use, as even with that, heat build-up can be a problem, causing plastic to melt. This is why some will recommend corded models with variable speed controls, but I find them too combersome and the cord always wants to whack something else on the bench. I find that with a little experience, there's no reason to have a meltdown. As to attachments, there are sanding disks mounted on mandrells, sanding drums, grinding wheels of four different compositions, cut-off wheels on mandrells, and a vast assortment of drills, augers, brushes, etc. How many of these various bits you will need will depend upon the quality of kit you build, and how close to stock you build it. Most Tamiya kits probably don't benefit much from a Dremel if built stock, but conversions and limited-run kits are going to make the Dremel the next thing to indispensible.

1. I use a Paasche VL, hooked up to a simple and noisy Badger compressor, mostly with acrylic paint. Yep, it needs to be cleaned thoroughly and frequently, but against that, it's built like a truck and does what I need. I really should get a reservoir for the compressor so that air pulsing is eliminated, but I haven't gotten around to it. Others will tell you their favorites and why.
2. Lifecolor, Diablo, Xtracrylic, Gunze, Polyscale, Testors Acryl and Tamiya are available acrylic paint lines. Testors [small bottle], Testors Modelmaster, Xtracolor and Humbrol are currently-available enamels. Tamiya sprays (I believe) are laquer-based. There are also metallizers, such as SNJ, Testors and Alclad II; clear glosses in many paint lines, though many people use Future Floor Polish (acrylic); clear flats and a variety of primers. There may be other obvious stuff currently marketed that I'm forgetting. Almost all my work is with Polyscale, Tamiya acrylic, SNJ amd Future, but I focus on WWII aircraft, so I can't say which lines are best for armor.
3. Take a serious look at your respiratory system. All modeling should be in an adequately-vented location, and a dust mask is a minimum protection when using acrylic paints or sanding resin. For more egregious volatiles, you should paint outside, improve your mask to a type that filters out noxious vapors, and/or introduce strong positive ventilation in your workspace. There isn't any way of knowing if anyone in this hobby has kicked the bucket prematurely because of chemical exposure, and most of this stuff is in such small quantities and frequency of use that perhaps there is no real risk, but the precautions are not that big a deal, and can eliminate almost all the risk there is.

hth

Mark Schynert

Paint:

Pollyscale or Humbrol? Humbrol and Testors Model Master line are enamels; my preferred choice.

If you're going to buy an airbrush, get a double action. Paasche H or Badger

150 are venerable icons and most everyone stocks parts. If you want to get more high tech try an Iwata. hth

The Keeper (of too much crap!)

On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 01:24:14 GMT, Greg Heilers scribed:

Thanks all for the great info.

Looks like I need a few things to get, and a few things to forget...

I really appreciate the group's answers, ideas and comments, and I hope to become a viable part of the community soon, and will look forward to C&C's on my first models.

Thanks again!

Fred

Snipped!

Sorry to be late but you should look at Aztek air brushes. They come with a variety of nozzles and are extremely easy to use, clean and keep going. They are very different from the traditional air brushes but I find them very convenient.

David

I don't use an Xacto knife at all. Somewhere in the past, I acquired a scalpel handle, and ordered a couple hundred blades from a medical supply place.

Nicer edge than an Xacto; cheaper to replace the blade when it gets dull; thinner blade means less "chisel" effect when trimming things, better results. It's a more subtle and capable tool than an Xacto knife.

The other tool I get a lot of use out of is a pair of dissecting tweezers, which come to a very sharp, almost needle, point. Very useful for manipulating tiny bits.

Oh, and hemostats: great for holding parts to be painted.

Steve H

Mark Schynert wrote:

The one I'm playing with now keeps clogging. How's the red cleaning handle supposed to be used?; mine's lacking the destructions. tia,

The Keeper (of too much crap!)

Red cleaning handle? I have two and they both have red 'spanners' (sorry wrenches) to tighten the spray heads on. I will try and scan my instructions and e-mail them.

I have the instruction scanned if you want them. Send an e-mail to snipped-for-privacy@totallyobjects.com with you full e-mail address. TA!