Badger 150 color cup question

I attach mine pointing to the left, but as far back as I can get it i.e. just to the left of the airbrush body, next to the air line. A bit like this:
This gets the cup into the best position, as far out of the way of the painting surface as possible, and with the colour running up into the airbrush when you tilt it forward. If airbrushing the ceiling, point it the other way! ;-) Lefthanded artists will probably want to place it to the right of the brush.

It's nice to know I've not the only one who finds the Badger cup position awkward! Paache makes a very similar cup that fits the Badger, but has a bend in the tube. You might want to give it a shot. I tried it for a while, but I found the tube was bent a little TOO far and it made cleaning harder.
Badger also make a double action airbrush called a "360". The inlet can be rotated to any position desired - top, bottom or side. I haven't used this one, but it sounds like it offers the best of all worlds: jar feed for those big jobs, cup feed for medium jobs and a top cup for the low pressure detail work.
Greg Reynolds, IPMS

The 360 is a more recent design than my old 150. Is it derived from the Thayer and Chandler line? It looks like it only has one tip and needle combination available for it.
Will the Paasche cup fit the Badger? It's only a friction fit and it would be awkward to have to hold it on.
If I were starting again I would buy a top-feed or side-feed airbrush, as I've never used the jars. But it isn't a big enough issue to make me want to change, and I've got used to the colour cup now.

Along this line of questioning, has anyone here any experience with the Badger 100G airbrush?? It is a brush with a fixed top color cup. I see it listed in the Squadron Flyer.
Bill Shuey

Yes, my Paasche H cup (and jars) fit my Badger 150. The angle is different so may or may not be a good position for the angle at which you want to hold the airbrush, but it is an option.
Since I model 1/72, I find the cup works just fine for the small amounts of paint I need. I seem to waste more paint with the jars. (As long as I overlook the paint I spill out of the cup when I'm not paying attention!)
But, I've also been eyeing the top feeders. It is my understanding that with the gravity assist, they require less air pressure to draw in the paint and therefore have less overspray.
Gre g Reynolds, IPMS

I have the 100SG: same as the 100G, but with a smaller cup and a fine nozzle/needle. Out of the box, it's a piece of crap: trigger movement too restricted for proper air control, leaky Teflon needle bearing (I tried four new bearings and three different needles without any improvement) and not rigid enough to insure proper centering of the needle, nozzle profile too narrow for acrylics (paint dries inside the nozzle), the beeswax sealing between crown and cap develops leaks in the middle of a job when using enamels, the chrome plating flakes away, etc. The only good point is that it's not very expensive.
Now that I've made a new bronze needle bearing, new mating surfaces between the body, the cap and the crown, modified the air valve and turned a new needle with a steeper cone, it's finally working as intended. But I'd rather machine a brand new airbrush from scratch than buy another Badger...