The AMT flying wings had some structure inside too. (snip)
One of my early attempts at a vacuform employed a spar of sprue. It still came out with crooked wings. Not sure if the roots on the fuselage were at the same height on the fuselage or my spar was skewed.
Same here. I'm mildly concerned about my Pegasus Albacore on that point.
Bill Banaszak, MFE
I knew there were some that came that way. IIRC, the 1/50 Heller Etendard kit was laid out that way, too.
Bill Banaszak, MFE
ISTR one of our members here had a similar problem with super glue. There's something I wouldn't want to go to the ER with.
Bill Banaszak, MFE
Grins.. guilty!
Well, I remember doing that...but I'm a confirmed scalpel user now. Talk about adventure; there's a tool that'll slice and dice better than any X-acto!
--- Tontoni
wanna hear some scary stories from my emt days in the 70's?
is the artiplast 1/50 walrus now the smer walrus? there's one on eekbay and they look very samilar.
Yep, it's the same. And, just for you and Milton, I've changed my sig and headers... ;)
Heh, I've been using scalpels since I was 12....it helped that dad was a surgeon and brought them home for free.
those horizontal seemlines go along way.
trumpeter's 1:72 SU-27 most F16 kits I've seen
Beware of the instinct to grab when you drop a scalpel, though!
David
Office supply stores have a solid rubber triangular thingy with a hole through it. The idea is to slide it onto a pencil to keep it from rolling off of the desk. Works great with an X-Acto knfe as well.
Dremel tools and air brushes always get knocked off of the table. Screw a cup holder hook to the undersde of the table nearest the edge close to you. The Dremel has a nice hole to hang onto the hook and air brushes can be slung from their air supply hose.
Have a small box top (or bottom) handy when painting. Place the opened bottle in the corner. If you knock it over the paint (should) stay in the box.
Tom
wrote
I made a "holder" for my airbrush out of coathanger wire that will hold it even with the hose and color cup attached. In fact, I put it in there when filling the color cup.
I put my tools on an old serving cart from a yard sale. I then made a cover for it from heavy plastic sheet, which keeps the dust off "between models".
KL
"Kurt Laughlin" wrote in news:Ur%5f.9658$da1.9490@trndny04:
One of he handy things I use is a Pringle can. I use the lid to put some CA-glue or mix paints on. when it's full you can just flake off the panint/and or glue. The can itself I use as an on-the-desk-miniature-garbage can. All the off cuts, tissues, used blades, you name it go in there.
When the can is full, it's probably time to dispose of the lid also, so close the can with it and throw away the lot.
Time to open a new can of Pringles!!
Dennis
Yeah - quite a few recent jet kits go together that way, and it works quite nicely, I think.
Hmmnnn...either the "wind-your-own" electric motor, or the rubber-band operated ejection seat I had in a couple of Lindberg kits as I was growing up...the motor was in a Stuka, as I recall...can't think of which kit had the band actuated bang-seat.
Agreed - the top/bottom molding of F/A-18 kits works pretty well...and the later Russian jets in 1/32 from Trumpeter - the Su-27, Mig-29 (as well as Revell's), and most others 1/48 offerings of the same.
So does the aft end of any Tomcat kit I've seen...and my Tamiya F-15s. And my 1/32 Revell Toronado.
Mold follows form...
Airfix 1/48 Buccaneer
How about the RenWall tanks with the crewmen who emerged from the hatch when you pushed the gun barrel down and went back when you pushed it up?
Tank tracks with end connectors that connect nothing. I cannot fathom how you make that mistake and then not correct it. I'n talking Mono Lee/Grant, Sherman, even the Patton! And Tamiya Lee/Grant and M3/M5 light tanks.
Even Airfix got the tracks right on thier Lee/Grant and that was approximately contemporary. I love the old Monogram kits, I'm trying to buy up all the Pzkw IV variants on eBay. The Lee/Grants and Shermans are there, too. But I won't touch 'em. I did the Grant back in the day. I'd done the Stug IV with the damaged schurzen beautifuly rusted, made crates and bedrolls, even a wire for the TCs headset and the Pzkw IV done reasonably good for a kid, even made a dio of a wrecked house with the Panzer coming through it like in the Shep Paine flyers. I did a nice job on the Grant, even sorta scratchbuilt a breech for the 37MM you could see through the pistol port I'd cut open. Did a great job on the figures, nice little dio of it moving in a marked lane through a minefield. Now I couldn't look at it, the damn tracks would make me crazy.
I know as a kid it didn't matter to me, but how can you go to the trouble of getting measurements, etc and blow that?
Frank
"Gray Ghost" wrote
. . .
I'm thinking it was not an error but deliberate. It was probably a case (in Monogram's case) of the vinyl they were using at the time not being flexible enough to bend around the sprockets and wheels closely enough if the thin sections between the blocks were stiffened by end connectors in the correct locations. (Look at Italeri's M107/M110 or Sherman tracks. Correct, but stiff as bandsaw blades.) In the case of Tamiya it was probably a combination of that with weakness of the end connector attachments to the tracks. Because these kits were motorized the sprockets drove the end connectors, so it would matter. The ability of the vinyl compositions to flow in the more intricate "realistic" molds might have been a factor in both cases.
KL
Heck, every Buccaneer that I know of!
Bill Banaszak, MFE
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