Clear Canopies - how do you mask?

I used to paint the frames freehand, but more often than not the raised detail wasn't very and I ended up with a mess. My most recent efforts have been with Tamiya masking tape which have worked better but still some bleed as curves tend to fold the tape and the paint leeches into the folds.

Has anyone any better methods? How about 'liquid mask'? I haven't used this before, is it worth buying for the job?

-- _________________ Norman Lever Melbourne, Australia _________________

Reply to
Norman Lever
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While some may yell "Too expensive - a real modeler wouldn't spend so much!", I use and much prefer Bare Metal Foil for canopies. Sure, it's more expensive than tape but you're sure of the results; it adheres well, burnishes to reveal every frame line, cuts cleanly to reveal said frame lines and releases easily. Since discovering it years ago, I always use it for close masking, like canopies. Just my $.02 (and my spendthrift attitude shining through!).

Frank Kranick IPMS/USA 20352

Norman Lever wrote:

Reply to
Francis X. Kranick, Jr.

I mask mine with Scotch tape. And airbrush them. Work, but works well.

Reply to
Rufus

in article bmm19q$mev$ snipped-for-privacy@perki.connect.com.au, Norman Lever at REMOVETHIS_nlever@ANDTHIS_webprophets.net.au wrote on 10/16/03 7:00 AM:

I've used scotch tape to cover the canopy, cutting out the framing with a new #11 blade, then burnishing the edges with a rounded tooth pick tip. I've also used liquid masking agents and they work ok but I found that I needed to have multiple coats and had trouble getting it into tight corners. I sometimes use Tamiya tape cut into very thin strips to conform to curves and use it for the areas next to the framing. Then I finish with liquid mask.

My current favorite is Bare Metal Foil which conforms well to about any curve and cuts cleanly with a sharp blade and just enough pressure to cut through the foil. Any left over adhesive is cleaned up with orange oil or Goo Gone.

MBell

Reply to
Milton Bell

I use Microscale foil adhesive and cheap aluminum foil to make my own. Works just as well as Bare Metal Foil and is a helluva lot cheaper.

Reply to
Al Superczynski

...There'ya go... ;-)

Frank Kranick IPMS/USA 20352

Reply to
Francis X. Kranick, Jr.

Tamiya tape. Swear by it. It's transparent enough that you can see through it to cut out very lightly raised lines that are otherwise hard to see (read: most 1/72!). Comes off easily, unlike past experiences I've had with Scotch tape when using acrylics.

Reply to
Joseph Volz

Usually I put the canopy on after the aircraft is painted. Beforehand, I painted up some silver or green decal in whatever the color the canopy is. Then I cut the decal in thin slices, and decal on the canopy frames. Kim M

Operation American Freedom- Where is our regime change?

Reply to
Royabulgaf

Parafilm for me.

Works just as well (when handled properly) as BMF, and streches around compund curves easilly.

You need a SHARP (!!!) knife to cut it cleanly !!

BTW, Hi Al, long time no see :-)

"Only a Gentleman can insult me, and a true Gentleman never will..."

Reply to
Azzz1588

One more thought - for natural metal aircraft - is to use silver decal film. I used this very successfully on a Monogram B-26, an AM SBD-1 and a Tamiya P-51D.

Frank Kranick IPMS/USA 20352

Reply to
Francis X. Kranick, Jr.

Yes! A much better method if I may say :-)

You can't get straight lines with liquid mask. Instead, try 'Cheap Chocolate Foil' as explained on my Stuka page:

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Copied from the page: "I used adhesive aluminium foil, not expensive Bare Metal Foil, but Cheap Chocolate Foil. It could be different in other parts of the world, but in Europe, chocolate bars are usually wrapped in aluminium foil, followed by a printed paper wrapping. In many cases the aluminium foil is white on the inside, and this is the type of foil you need. This foil can be split in a thin aluminium layer and a paper layer (a fiddly job!), and the aluminium layer remains slightly tacky after the split. It is perfect for masking canopies, much better than Bare Metal Foil because of its much lower tackyness. But for permanent foiling I wouldn't use it, I guess. I have to add that the splitting is relatively simple with some types of foil, and near impossible with others. You may have to shop around a little."

Examples are also shown on other pages of the site (Komet, Super Etendard, YF-22). Try it - it is nearly free!

Rob de Bie

My models:

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Me 163B site:
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Reply to
Rob de Bie

I did the same thing with the RP-38E Swordfish conversion, since all the Execuform kit gave me was one long clear cockpit cover, and the real thing had about a dozen frame bars adding the front cockpit and the back. It's the only way to go with an NMF bird AFAIC. Not that I do much NMF.

Mark Schynert

Reply to
Mark Schynert

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