Whenever I need to do a complex masking job, such as curves, over
paint, just windows, etc., I run into problems. Usually the worst
problems are paint lifing and gummy spots left behind. I've tried
frisket, liquid mask, and plain old masking tape. What do you use?
I'm nearing completion of my first model after a break of some 20 years,
so I'm learning things all over again. Anyway as far as masking tape goes
I am using a tape called Scotch 'Pressure Sensitive Tape' also known as
'Low Tack' masking tape, I got this from my local art store. Others will
tell you that Tamiya tape is the best. It may be but it is also
expensive, and so far I have had no trouble with the Scotch tape i.e. no
paint lifting and no tacky residue left behind.
I also use Humbrol Maskol as my liquid mask. This is latex based so I
guess that any latex based product will do. To apply it I use a tooth
pick. As a experiment (to which the result is unkonwn at the moment
because I haven't finished painting) I have used both Maskol and maskibng
tape on the canopy of my Tomcat to see which gives the better result.
To put the masking tape on the canopy I first cut it roughly to shape and
then burnished it down over it so that the canopy frame could be
identified through the tape. Then, with a new No 10 scapel blade, I
carefully cut around the frame and remove the excess tape.
Applying the Maskol I found to be a litte easier because I let the stuff
run up to the frame edge and then wick along the edge before smearing it
over the rest of the canopy.
It does take time and patientce and it took me three attempts to get the
Maskol just right.
A common masking mistake is to use 3M masking tape as opposed to 3M drafting
tape. The former is high tack with heavy residue. The latter is low tack
with minimal residue. An even better improvement over drafting tape is
Tamiya masking tape - low tack, very flexible for compound curves and comes
in plastic dispensers of varying width. There are refills available for the
I am also using Parafilm more and more. I tried it several times in the
past and didn't like it. Then I discovered that the key to my use of it is
to stretch it in four directions (left, right, up and down) instead of the
two directions (left & right only) I had done before.
A trick to masking any tape over curves is to cut small "nicks" in the tape
at small intervals. Don't cut all the way through the tape but only about
one-third to a half way through. The cuts allow the tape to bend without
wrinkling. This is a great method for bombs, drop tanks, fuselages, etc.
Hope this helps.
I seen a product in my local art & craft shop. It was in a large container,
very cheaply priced and simply labeled 'Latex Mould' I instantly wondered if
I could use this as a masking device but the shop assitant knew very little
about it's usage values so I decided not to part with my money until I could
establish how this product could help me (if it could at all) So perhaps
you guys could help: could I use it as a liquid mask??? It is in liquid form
in the container..........
I use ordinary Scotch tape myself which leaves no glue behind. But I do have
tape that does leave glue behind. So it is a matter of picking and testing
the right brand. In my experience paint lifting can for a large part be
prevented by de-greasing the model prior to painting.
I use Tamiya masking tape here in Japan, where it is not too pricey. I
used a generic-brand masking tape back in South Africa. As time went
on, I tended to cut the masking tape very very thin indeed with a
scalpel on a glass surface, which allowed for masking of very complex
areas - or rather I should say the edges - plus the adjust ment of the
tape was easier to carry out (using a toothpick) than would be the
case for thick-cut tape. After this, the interior of masked areas was
filled with a liquid mask (Humbrol or Tamiya in my case). the above
refers to canopies; for larger areas such as wings, hulls and the
like, I would use thicker-cut masking tape against the thinly-cut
tape, and after that paper to fill up the rest of the interior. Lots
of scrap paper from the laboratory/office was used in this manner.